|
Untitled Page
ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012 READ ONLY FORUM
This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and
1st March February 2012
Search
-
Beautiful, Peter! Isn't it great to have a fully-functioning (inside and outside) restored sytem? Sure beats all the garbage on the market today! May you have many hours of pleasurable listening! Menahem
-
I've got a CD50 coming in for repair, and while I'm very familiar with the Philips CDM2- and CDM4-based units, this unit has an Aiwa laser, which I've never seen before. Does anyone have a model number for this laser? Is the laser separate from the motor, or are the 2 parts an integrated unit? Any spares around at all? Menahem
-
Julien, One needs to be very careful when replacing these unobtanium IC's. Generally these IC's were very well made, designed to last a lifetime. When they fail consistently, as they do in the BM6000, there is usually another reason, such as overheat, or unstable power due to bad passive components in the circuit close to this IC. The chances
-
Hi all, Just completed a simple non-oversampling mod on the famous and well-regarded Philips TDA1541 DAC-based CD. This DAC uses the filter IC SAA7220P/A or B, which is very noisy, and corrupts the clock timing. Net Audio, http://www.net-audio.co.uk/tda1541nos.html , offers a plug-in replacement for the original IC, which includes a high-precision clock
-
Hi Mika, Good to see that you're still tinkering! You don't need to bypass the Tape input - there are plenty of old KVM (Keyboard Video Mouse) Computer switchboxes around with 5 pin Din Keyboard connectors. Many companies are throwing them away these days. Ignore the Video and Mouse connectors (if it has those). Find one with a 1-port input
-
Excellent! Good work! So, now you understand why you don't just go connecting 9-pin males into 9-pin females, even though they look like they are compatible. So now, referring to the Service Manual, find the Front Left and Front Right wires on the 9-pin FEMALE, and CAREFULLY solder them to 2 thin insulated wires, and those to the Front Left and
-
1. Remove your MMC cartridge/stylus. 2. Press play, and connect your multimeter (VDC) - one probe to chassis, and one probe testing each one of the 9-pin female sockets - see if there's any voltage there in any of the sockets. 3. If there is DC voltage, then don't connect the 9-pin male-lead into the socket. 4. The male connector has only line
-
A number of possible causes. 1. Could be the bias trimpots in the output amp stage (Replace with long-lasting Cermet types). 2. Check the resistance of the low-ohm resistors at the speaker outputs. A regular Multimeter will not be able to do that - its internal resistance is too high.... BUT either the Peak ESR or the EVB ESR meter can do it - they
-
Hi Richard, Nice pieces you've got there. I use a Meguro AM-FM Stereo Signal Generator. On the units I work on, I haven't found a need for anything else, except my scope, of course! You'll need an impedance matcher between your Signal Generator output and the BM6000 antenna input (300ohm). I made my own (see picture) BNC 50ohm on the SG
-
Point well taken, but I'm a bit gun-shy of these NTC's right now! About 6 months ago, my 20-year-old Tek 2465B scope failed. After getting (mad) quotes for repair, I decided that I couldn't lose anything by going at it myself. I got a lot of help from the Tekscopes Yahoo forum, and after about a month of horse-trading, I traced the culprits
|
|
|