The covers are now dry, so it's back to everyone's favourite from all service manuals: "assembly is the reverse of dissassembly." Install the "Red Line" frame, and then position the drivers and the crossover back where they were. Install all brackets and replug the wires. If any of the connectors have become loose, pinch

Let the front covers dry properly - moisture trapped inside the speaker can't be a good thing - and then inspect the results. Mine are still a tad damp, so I'll return with the assembly process and final results after I've run some errands meanwhile. *** Back from shopping, it's been almost four hours since I first started, and motivation

Then, we can see what we can do with the fabric. It is glued around the perimeter of the front baffle, under the straps, and on the "Bang & Olufsen" script so that it shows through. Apart from the glue, there should be nothing left that could be damaged by water (don't do this with the smaller models that have, I believe, a chipboard

Back to the actual business at hand. There's still stuff to remove - namely the actual red (or silver...) line. This model has just four screws around the perimeter and then that part of the frame lifts off. Now we have a great opportunity to clean the dust from these otherwise impossible grooves!

Now would be an excellent time to recap the crossover. I'm not going to do that now - but since RL6000 service manual isn't on site, here's a parts list - for this pair, anyway... Check the solderings as well - these were all fine. 22 uF / 63 V (which I would upgrade to 100V) 15 uF / 100 V 5.6 uF / 100 V (two of these) (and a 3.3 uF / 100

Now you see all the innards. Make good notes of where everything goes - preferably take a good picture, which I obviously forgot - and then start removing things. Felt pen markings across the perimeter of the drivers make it easy to replace them correctly and in the same position. Otherwise it's easy, just screws, brackets and more foam & rubber

Once you have the back loose, peek under it and see how the wires from the connector panel to the crossover go. They have just enough length that you can unplug them from the panel, and then lift the shell completely off. Note the positions of the damping blocks so you can put them back properly later. (models like RL60.2 which also have a DIN connector

So, we'll need to dismantle the speaker and see if we can really wash the fabric without ruining anything. First, the two mylar straps will have to come off if you're lucky to still have them. Each of them is held by a triangular plastic block in the rear, fixed with one screw. Loosen it and you can slide the straps off over the speaker ends

I recently got a pair of RL6000's, which although in fine technical condition, were dirty. So here's a short "workshop" on the cleaning process, hopefully useful to someone else as well. Sorry for the highly un-Beoliving environment - things move so fast at the office that it is a constant mess Unfortunately I didn't take a good

[quote user="malcolm welborn"] as a matter of interest what size are the screens at football and other sports arenas, they look big [/quote] Those can be pretty much anything. The largest I saw in Beijing was on the outer wall of a hotel, more than five stories high. But these are actually easier; because of the large pixel size they can be