Hi Chris: Do a search on Beogram 8000 and Beogram 8002 in this forum, I think you'll find answers/tips to many of your questions. Dillen (Martin) can supply the belt and capacitors. He has ready made kits. As for cracked chasis, you can fix this with a bit of work.... Digout out all the loose debris from the chasis. Find some plastic sheets or wax

Hi Jeff: Have you checked the obvious: 1) Cleaned tape heads meticullously 2) Swap the L+R channels on the output of the tape head to the input amplifiers. If the problem switches channels then its not the audio amps. 3) Check for proper azimuth. The BC 9000 came with an alignment tape and a tiny screw driver, which means someone could have fiddled

Menahem: Thanks for that additional piece of information! I'm close to fully restoring my 4002 which was fished out of a dumpster. On outstanding problem that remains is the unit will not always turn of when the carriage returns to rest position. The carriage assembly hits the off switch on at rest position, the system appears to turn off, but there

Hi Menahem: Yes thanks for the info! I changes all of the caps except fro the 150uF bipolar phase shift capacitor. I'm trying to save up enough parts to get over the Digi-Key minimum order amount. I see that you are using 220 uF. Do you think that replacing this will get rid of the hum? I also used 4700uF capacitors as a substitute for the original

Chris: Many thanks for coming to the rescue! But lets hold off for now as I may have solved the problem with lubrication. Initially I just applied oil to the shaft via need applicator but the knocking didn't go away. The next thing I did was I used a ruler to pry the pully off. Then I soaked the bearing around the shaft with a big blob of oil and

Gerhard: Let us know how you make out and please!.. more photos. Since you will be using SMT LEDs let me offer one additional piece of advice that has worked well for me. Sometimes it is difficult to solder the SMT directly onto the pads because the copper has oxidized thus you should "tin" the copper surface first. What you can do is to first

Hi Gerhard: Well one side of the LED sits on the pad. And the wire runs from the silicon waffer outside to the other pad. The silicon junction is encapsulated in red epoxy. I believe its where the wire connects to the other pad (ie out side world) that gets severed. So you need to put a pool of silver solder paste over that pad to bridge the gap. If

Yes that's what I'm thinking. Do you know how to dismantle the motor? Can it even be taken apart? I don't suppose anyone on here has a spare motor? I should also mention that it "knocks" more often when in 45 speed mode. Derek

Hi Martin: Yes that is properly adjusted. The motor still "knocks," it sounds like someone is litterally "knocking on your door" with a periodic frequency. Derek

Hi Martin: How do you adjust motor phase? I see only motor voltage adjustment instructions in the service manual. Derek