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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012 READ ONLY FORUM
This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and
1st March February 2012
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As Puncher suggests, this definitely seems to be a motor problem. Too often the Beogram CD50 is diagnosed with a bad laser when the fault is actually lying somewhere else. I agree that the faulty read CD's symptom indeed looks like a tired laser but in more than 95% of the cases, the fault turns out to be the spindle motor, the focus circuit or
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This photo shows the underside of the Beogram, just below the arm. The mechanism will probably have seized, causing the lift function to act too slow (eventually failing completely) and the needle to abrade on the record on its way back to park position after playing. Of course, the best solution would be to take it all apart, clean everything, re-lubricate
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The Beovox S80 woofer is very friendly when it comes to refoam'ing so you may end up with a good result but I can assure you that the method you describe won't be adequate for many other types of woofers, Redline 140 springs to mind, where tolerances are extremely tight. Always, and I do mean always re-shim the coil and fixate it while the foam
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The sudden shutdown or CPU reset (because that's what it is) is a sign of processor instability, most likely caused by bad capacitors and/or bad solders. I've seen too many Beogram's deemed "irrepairable because of a dead processor" but, luckily, the truth was different. Grab a cap kit and check the solders, especially around the
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Any amplifier not capable of reaching the point of distortion is badly designed. Running an amplifier at the point of distortion is risking damage to tweeters, hearing and eventually the amp itself. Martin
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Sad to hear that you have gotten a bad view on B&O. You are entitled to your opinion and most welcome to state it here. Even if we can't really do much about it apart from trying to comfort you a bit, it will almost certainly give a good discussion but even better would probably be for you to contact B&O, your local dealer would be the first
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The dustcover spring needs to be tightened. Dismount it, heat it up and twist it gently. The right side alu cover probably needs a new hinge plate, As Kevin suggests, people tend to force things and finding it broken where it grips into the alu plate is only too common. I may have a new hinge plate still in stock but take a closer look first. Capacitor
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Disassembly is different, depending on the version. The chassis of the grey faced version (type number below 2230) comes out complete with the knobs and dial whereas the black faced version (type number 2230 and up) leaves the outer dial "screen" in the cabinet requiring dismounting of the 4 round knobs. Note that the round knobs are of three
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Yes, it's a tricky job. It has been some time since last I had one of these on the bench but I do remember that you have to form a loop of the belt and feed it in under the capstan flywheel through a hole in the chassis with the aid of a couple of toothpicks, icecream sticks or similar. I'm sure Tim can explain better. If you got the belt on
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It's probably not put together correctly. When mounting the frontpanel you need to observe the switch arm and make sure that it grips correctly. Martin
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