The switches merely tells the electronics whether to turn up or down. The step pulses comes from the opto reading the black and white square pattern through a tiny hole on the side of the casing surrounding the volume wheel on the inside of the Master Control Panel. The opto is a single 3-pin unit with both transmitter and reader in one, mounted on

After taking off the front grills, as Steve suggests, you need to dismount one (or maybe both) of the speaker drivers to gain access to all the screws holding the front baffle. I never noticed any foam rot in the RL35's but do check the crossovers. Especially the solders at the spade connectors tend to develop cracks. I usually put a bit of wire

It's always extremely hard to put a price on these things. The Beolab 608 (as it's often called) is a wonderful amplifier and fairly rare as well but not really considered one of the classic pieces and not specifically sought after. Besides, as it is the case with almost any B&O, condition is very important. A guess for a nice, working example

The appearance of the JET was fine from the start though the wooden surfaces looked a bit dry in some places. The glass dial was cleaned gently on the outside. It's not adviceable to clean the printed side of the dial unless you are absolutely sure that what you do won't ruin the lettering. All knobs were cleaned in handwarm soapy water using

While inspecting the valve pins, I noticed that the UL84 had a crack around the base of the glass envelope. I left it in circuit while repairing as it was still working but since it probably won't stand the vibrations of future moving around and eventual shipping it was replaced with a NOS Telefunken UL84 which should guarantee good functionality

The dial string arrangement was very lose, often causing slippage. The chassis bracket holding the AM antenna also holds a couple of little dial string wheels. The bracket was bent at an angle. This was corrected and the bracket given a slight bend in the opposite direction to introduce a tiny amount of string tension which cured the problem.

While repairing, I noticed that the chassis was mounted slightly offset towards the right side. The group of piano-type buttons was not centered within the wooden frame cutout, causing the far right treble control buttons to rub the wooden frame and even bind to eachother occasionally. This was corrected by losening the two screws holding the chassis

Back to the missing 11mA. With the introduction of the NOS UCC85 that brought the front-end to life, the current now looks much better, measured and calculated to apprx 80 mA. Very close to the service sheet but still not spot-on and the radio still wasn't working very good. The old coal-type resistors are usually very reliable. Having said that

The UCC85 is a combined valve and has two anodes. The service sheet gives the anode voltages as 144 and 154 Volts respectively. The voltmeter showed 143.5 (close enough) and 112 Volts (no good) so a replacement UCC85 valve had to be found. The replacement gave 145 and 143 Volts so was clearly better. Still not spot-on but should at least be able to

Humming can be caused by several things; Leaking smoothing- or filter caps and too high output valve anode current just to name the main causes. In series with the metal rectifier a 47 ohm ceramic resistor is mounted to slow down the rush-in current in case the radio is switched off and then back on again while the valves are still hot. This would otherwise