So I picked up another troubled table-an 8000 that needs recapping and work to the sensor arm. The plexi's pale green. My other 8000 project has a brown tinted cover, just like all the 8002s. Were there 2 colors? YES!Click on the file above this for a real clear comparison of 2 8002 covers over their brushed aluminum. I also hadn't noticed:

Interesting point-the TX-a good belt driven contemporary of the 8002 and having almost identical tonearm and tonearm drive-has 5dB more noise than the 8002>which has 5dB more noise than the 3300-or so who says.

"You seem to assume that beltdrive automatically would make the 3300 an inferior turntable" Actually I was referring to the tonearm drive which is like a tuning string on a tuner. I've always wondered how much noise the tonearm drive induces when it runs.

I'll validate: replacing the caps got both my 8002s behaving. Surprisingly, I found no broken solders in either. #3-solder city!

A buddy of mine had a friend hook me up with his 3300 turntable that he didn't use anymore. I have 2 8002s-maybe the best(?)- but couldn't pass it up-maybe I can get someone else addicted-misery loves company! But I didn't know much about it so I checked the library..........and this string drive POS has better (-5dB) noise numbers than

How do i balance the arm If you set the slider to zero and set it to play, the arm should have virtually no force on it and kinda float over the disc. Consider that to be balanced and set the slider to 1-1.2g. If it's not OK and the stylus is clean (take the cart off and check it under magnification), then you probably need a cart. If the arm isn't

NO! Tape a dime to the end of the tone arm. Actually, you should ensure that the stylus is cleaned off well. If it is, then go thru the procedure for balancing the arm and then setting tracking force (1g). If that fails, then post to this community and someone will be along to help

I need help. 8002, recently re-capped, was having many symptoms before I restored the pin connection to the main chassis from the processor and reflowed several bad joints. Now all is OK except when a disc ends play -or- the stop button is pushed: tonearm lifts and arm servo moves it 3-4mm then stops. Push ">>" and it returns and shuts

Exactly-it is very much original-like. Rigidly mounting one end of the cover with epoxy makes it more resonant.

I've used 3M twice-it seemed easiest and non permanent, but I wonder if it doesn't do a lot to damp the aluminum, especially the tonearm cover which is a pretty well "tuned" piece (xylophone bar?) of metal.