Ok, so I tried to measure the base of 1TR4, I would get only 21V steady. 1TR4 tested to be short circuit between base and emitter. This was replaced and here is the image as viewed at the base of the new 1TR4... looks pretty close to the one in the workshop manual. Peak to peak, its approx 1V with the bright light shining on the platter, without its

Hi Martin, The arm lamp is correct, but is old, so maybe degraded. When measuring the photocell output before the decoupling capacitor (2.2uf), I can see where the ribs on the platter are, but after the capacitor, it all just becomes too noisy. I didn't have the aluminium surfaced installed when I was measuring with the oscilloscope, but they have

Let me try to revive an old thread... My Beogram is a type 5527 and i've just downloaded the 'new' service manual that Peter kindly uploaded. Where to start..... Problem is that the arm will lower at the 12" position even with no LP on the platter. I traced bad wiring to the photocell in the arm - that was replaced. All of the small

Here are a couple of pics - The tuning slider is missing in action though i'm afraid, as is the lower section of the bass slider. The volume one is all there though, so maybe thats of use. Overall, its not quite as bad as I remembered. The wood veneer is chipped, but the alu panels are pretty good. To send by DHL, it works out at £24 to Germany

You might be in luck...... I think I still have an old Beocenter 2600 up in my loft that needs a new home. Its in poor condition, but I think the tuning slider is still there. I'll have to get it out and have a check. I think it even still works! Obviously they are all in silver, but maybe some matt black paint will remedy that? Let me know if you

Remember that you can use another brand of integrated amplifier/receiver to power these speakers, doesnt have to be B&O. I have an old 55wpc Technics receiver hidden away powering the CX100's next to my monitor, works great, and it only takes a reach under my desk to alter the volume.

It needs to be quite firm... you don't want it falling off again! Scrape off all of the old glue from the plastic frames, and remove from the glass panel carefully. I left mine to soak in warm soapy water, then just rubbed my thump over the glass to remove the glue. Same with the plastic, except I used a metal scraper. Then refit with your gap filling

Hi Martin Thanks for the belt kit for this turntable, they fit perfectly! With regards to the capacitors, yes, I checked and double checked the polarity and values before soldering them into place. The problem I had before changing the capacitors was the arm not dropping, moving to the end, and back to rest. I'll check the solders and leads again

Quite the opposite of the usual arm not lowering problem.... I replaced all of the old small tantalum beads and electrolytics this evening in a bid to get this turntable going properly, but now i'm faced with the next problem: The arm will always drop at the LP position, even if there is a single or no record at all on the platter. Could this be

Hey Phil, Glad it got there in one piece! Thanks for your kind words, Best Regards, Ben