NoBit:

[View:http://www.youtube.com/user/MastroVintage?feature=mhee#p/u/0/NodHzm_KMuo:560:315]

 

Just done!!!!!!!!!!!!

Like magicians hands. Great job! Tell us a bit more what you did to make the Ipod/phone work. You connected the Ipod/phone to the aux input of the 2500?

In this unit I used the aux input but studing an interface to send commands directly form Beocenter to Ipod using Tape Deck interface.

NoBit:

In this unit I used the aux input but studing an interface to send commands directly form Beocenter to Ipod using Tape Deck interface.

 

Would you like to share technical details with me/us? 

I don't know if this is possible, it seems that B&O has a similar interface (similar as functions, not as circuits project)... What does the moderator forum think about? 

The existing upgrade consist in one apple cable adapted to connect to the aux input

Leslie:

Restored my Grundig tweeters from which I have made the aluminium base and connected this pair with the bassbox to my Beocenter BC9000. Great sound!

Leslie:

They are Evan, to be honest, I like them more than the Beovox 2500

I think its just because they are white!

Evan:

Leslie:

They are Evan, to be honest, I like them more than the Beovox 2500

 

I think its just because they are white!

Forgot about that, yeah you're right! What do you think, shall I make the bassbox ..... as well

This will eventually be B&O related... got this cheap "SCART splitter" from Biltema. It's nothing but short a SCART cable, terminated in a box with two female SCART connectors in parallel. The build & material quality can be best described as complete sh*t (I resoldered some points right away), but since the cable is very short, it won't be able to ruin the signals. I added two RCA jacks for audio input.

My immediate need was just to get audio into my MX4002 while the video is connected through the S-video input, but instead of a simple adapter, this has a couple of advantages:

• The soft plastic case is easy to perforate for extra cables / connectors
• All the SCART signals are connected and available on the PCB, so it is easy to tap into them either inside the box or through the extra connector
  
• There's plenty of room in the box for a small microcontroller board and other circuitry  

Leslie:

Evan:

Leslie:

They are Evan, to be honest, I like them more than the Beovox 2500

 

I think its just because they are white!

Forgot about that, yeah you're right! What do you think, shall I make the bassbox ..... as well

Definitely!

Could not resist Evan. Grundig bassbox en alum. bases in white now! What a match and sound!!!!

Leslie

Well, I think you sell yourself short.

What you think you may be lacking in electronic ability, you more than make up for in design and cosmetic restoration ability!

Menahem

Shalom Menahem, that's as a great compliment hearing it from you. As said earlier, if I had the capability to do electronic repairs as well, wow! My mind is full of ideas restoring B&O equipment especially for the mirror & glass panels.

You did it again Leslie, but now please get the cubes of the BM before they make marks, I'm scared to death.

Negociating with Leslie for a vintage set for my son, he is now in DK studying, maybe my name brother from Esbjerg has something for him, or Friedmet or or. Not working on anything waiting for spares from Martin and Mouser, and  some 8 pin din chassis mount from England to make a distributer with 5 V trigger for power link, to have the virus and live in Mex sometimes stretch your patience, planning to go to TX in November to pick up speakers and small items.

Leslie:

Could not resist Evan.

THAT IS AMAZING!!!! Boy do you work fast!

I have to admit, I am head over heels for that white 3000. So sharp, Leslie.

I wish I could be doing my audio refurb along with you guys (I have so much to doooo!!!!), but I am very short on time these days. I am in the middle of re-doing one of my spaces and as a result, my vintage Beo is piled up in a corner. I am buying new lighting tomorrow - maybe.

Medogsfat:

Refitted the glass panels (thanks Graham (joeyboygolf) for the missing plastic frame) and restrung the CD door - definately NOT a job for the feint hearted

@Chris or others. I also managed to restring both CD and Cassette doors. Took me a whole day to find out which was the best way to do it. I completely took of the top part in order to have good access to do the restring job. Now "I did it" but still an issue on the CD door. It does not open smoothly but with hick-ups and it stucks half way unless I give it a helping hand. I'm sure I did it the right way (restring) and the drawing in the service manual tells you exactly how to do it! Could it be the belt that needs to be replaced? Looks good to me though.

New belts are definitely in order. Try Martin first.

I would always replace belts before restringing.

Menahem

yachadm:

New belts are definitely in order. Try Martin first.

I would always replace belts before restringing.

Menahem

Well, in this case I had to restring cause the "rope" came of But it's a good excersise just like restringing the Ouverture and look a likes.

Will get in touch with Martin, thanks Menahem and Shalom! Btw, I got some customers today from Israel (ORL refinery). Very nice people

Hello,

just finished recaping BM6500 white and CD6500 white with new Low ESR Panasonic caps. CD updated with new Opamps OPA2604. Sounds superb! Then I started to rebuild defected tape 6500 (also white).

Regards

satmonster321

Panasonic - good.

Low-ESR in audio section - good (can be harsh), but prefer Nichicon KT audio.

Low-ESR in power section - not good - causes stress on transformer, and may oscillate some Pi circuits, causing semiconductor breakdown.

Low-ESR in power circuits is good only in SMPS - Switch-Mode Power Supplies, which this vintage B&O is NOT!

For this power section - Nichicon HE, or Panasonic FC, but definitely not Panasonic FM!!!

Menahem

Working on a BS3000 CD unit. CD sometimes spin most of the time dont. In Testmode  focus works  but all the other tests fail.

I was told they use a VAM1253  my unit has a VAU1255/21.   Is this the correct unit for a BS3000 with a large clamper?   I like to swap the cd unit for a working one. 

Where can I order parts for this CD unit or a working VAU1255?

Can you post some close-up pics of the actual laser unit and its flexible PCB.

You may have to do some disassembly here.

I'll try and identify the replacement laser for you.

Menahem

yachadm:

Can you post some close-up pics of the actual laser unit and its flexible PCB.

You may have to do some disassembly here.

I'll try and identify the replacement laser for you.

Menahem

Thanks Menahem.  I make some pics and post them here. When in testmode the laser focus inside and outside but not upside and downside. Sometimes in cd spinsup but only after some time. Most of the time the cd doesnt spin up at all.

Paul

Hello Yachadm,

thanks for the advice about capacitors. I have to be more precise: I used Wima in the preamp section, Panasonic FC's for power section. Now I like the sound, I think I will not change this setup at the moment. If I get Nichicon caps maybe I find time to change to those.

Regards

satmonster321

No, that's excellent - don't change anything.

The Wima's are very high-grade film capacitors, the Nichicon KT's are electrolytics.

If you already put the film capacitors in, do not downgrade to an electrolytic.

BTW, the Panasonic FC's are not considered Low-ESR caps, and they are fine for this work (but I just prefer Nichicon HE, as they have higher current capability). Anyway, there is no justification to change anything!!!!