This has been explained a number of times in so many words, but never with pictures - I though it would be easier to refer to a pictorial thread instead of reiterating the subject again and again

The first thing to do is to unplug the Beogram from mains. If there are missing covers inside, live parts will be visible. Also, if there is power, you might accidentally start the deck and drive the stylus into something...

The construction of these Beograms is really clever - the wooden frame of the plinth keeps the entire top together. There's not a single screw to remove, you just grab the frame by its rear ends and slide it forward as far as it comes, for about one centimeter.

The next step is to remove the side panel above the controls. Lift the right edge of it about this much, and then slide it away to the right. Be careful not to bump the stylus if you have the cartridge installed!

This is the underside of the side panel. Note the pegs that keep it in place - one of them must slide in a brass hook in the left front corner when you are reinstalling it later.

The next part to remove is the rectangular plate around the platter. It just lifts off, don't bump the stylus or scratch the dust lid while doing so. Then you are left with this.

The platter can now be removed. Release the belt from around the motor pulley and lift off the platter - carefully, as the subplatter may be stuck on it and fall.

Note how I wrapped the belt partly around the platter. That keeps it in place making installation much easier.

Here's the inside of the deck, with the subplatter still sitting on the actual bearing. (can anyone confirm if there are versions without this kind of a subplatter?)

The subplatter once again just lifts off. The subplatter and platter definitely need to be packaged separately when you ship these Beograms!

Here we have a peek at the muting circuit. If you have a Beogram 6000 or one of the others with a CD-4 decoder option, there will be a large circuit board sandwiched below it, extending all the way under the control panel.

This part of the control panel can be pried off - it snaps in place with some spring clips, and theoretically could come loose during shipping. Below it, you see a single screw which holds the rest of the control panel in place.

Assembly, as always, is the reverse of the disassembly. Remember to install the belt and rotate the platter a few turns to make sure it stays in place.

The square panel needs to be orientated like this - the edge of the side panel goes between this brass strip and the panel itself. It can be tight. Also, note the brass fork I mentioned earlier. The side panel must be kept close to horizontal when you slide it in place, otherwise the fork won't catch the peg.

That's it!

There are actually quite a few varieties!! I think your one is an early 4002 as it has the heavy platter and AC motor. The 4000 is more massive still and has a strobe assembly and the later models have a much lighter platter and a different sub platter. They all come apart the same way though.

Very good photos.
Let me add that it's always a good idea to dismount the cartridge from the tonearm and store it a safe place
before taking the Beogram apart.

Martin

Peter :

There are actually quite a few varieties!! I think your one is an early 4002 as it has the heavy platter and AC motor.

This is actually Beogram 6000 type 5505, originally sold in the UK. The serial number was rather small as well if I remember right.

Yes, I agree it would be a good idea to put the cartridge somewhere safe first. Mine is just so tight that I always feel like I'm going to bang the tonearm somewhere once the cartridge lets go. And if you need to test play while tweaking something, you'd have to just reinstall it anyway. Against my own recommendation in the first post, I like to leave the power on and drive the tonearm out of the way before removing / installing the side plate, as in the last picture...

Since we (you) are talking about dismantling a turntable, is there

a "right way" to remove a cartridge?

Mika,

That is really helpful - I've just agreed to buy a BG4004 and your post will make sure I get it home safely.

A stupid  question (I'm very good at these!)

When the platter, etc have all been removed, do you slide the wooden frame back into place before packing the thing up? I assume you do but I would like to make sure.

Cleve

Yes. The wooden frame locks all the other plates into position. The safest way to transport a 4000 type deck is to pick it up yourself and to use the original packaging. Clearly this is rare! If you have no packaging, remove the platters and pack them separately and remove the cartridge. Make sure all the other panels are locked into position, put a piece of foam rubber under the arm so it cannot move and tape it down. Also tape the lid down.

Peter,

Thanks. 

This one has a beautiful figured Rosewood frame and has the original packaging .  Another step along the way to the perfect Rosewood 4000!  

Cleve

For completeness, here are pictures of a later version Beogram with a DC drive motor (this time Beogram 4004 type 5525, but a 4002 or a 6000(?) could look like this as well).

The platter itself is lighter, but the subplatter is much larger and the drive belt runs on it. Therefore you can't / won't need to use the wrapping trick shown earlier, you'll just need to install the belt like this. It will be difficult if the belt is very stretched and loose.

A shot with the subplatter removed as well. Quick ID: much smaller motor, only one large grey capacitor instead of the four in an AC drive version. The construction is actually tidier in these later versions, with connectors between the main PCB and the rest of the circuitry.

Great thread and the pictures were a big help. I am in the process of restoring a 4002 and have been lucky to have acquired a couple that I can swap the better cosmetic parts to put together one better table. One question I have that seems a logical extension of this thread, which is how do you completely remove the wooden base that I would like to swap with a better one that I have? I know all the top screws on the sides have to be taken off but there is one metal tab in the front on the right that keeps the wooden base from coming completely off the table.

Any help here would be appreciated.

I've never needed to do that myself, but on this 4004 I can see one more tab (and screw) on the right under the operation panel. Have you tried removing the panel first?

Hi Mika,

No I haven't, I was hoping there was some easier way than taking off the operation panel. Thinking that it might be as simple as removing the other panels which doesn't involve a screw driver. I am not so much lazy as fearful I might break something not knowing how to properly remove it.

I wish Jaff would do this for the beocenter 3500 ;). Not much to find about that machine around here (besides the things i've asked for already), pitty. I'm not a hero when it comes to taking these precious machines apart (maybe not precious in money but certainly precious as a piece of inheritage). This step by step proces is very usefull for users of these machines! 

Lennaert:

I wish Jaff would do this for the beocenter 3500 ;).

I already did this for you almost (2) months ago! HERE.

burantek:

Lennaert:

I wish Jaff would do this for the beocenter 3500 ;).

I already did this for you almost (2) months ago! HERE.

I'm very sorry, thy Grand Master. Forgive me and spare my life![:'(]

I was just talking about the visual support this post gives, but I'm not demanding anything from you at all! It was just meant as a joke. Dutch humor isn't appreciated here?