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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012

This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and 1st March February 2012


Latest post 08-26-2010 6:21 PM by Dillen. 115 replies.
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  • 02-11-2009 8:43 PM In reply to

    • Beolab
    • Top 150 Contributor
    • Joined on 05-18-2007
    • Sweden
    • Posts 535
    • Bronze Member

    Re: Stage 1

    En the sound is now a big step up or =)?


    Nice work!



    BL8000 MkII Black

  • 02-12-2009 4:07 AM In reply to

    Re: Stage 1

    Snoopy, we need Pictures!

    I might try this on my parents Pentas is a few years.



    BLab5, BLab5000, BLab8000, BV10, BS9000, BS3, Beo5, Beo4, BLink1000, BLink5000, BLink7000, A2, A8, Form2




  • 02-12-2009 8:09 AM In reply to

    Re: Stage 1

    Humm finally solved, I've had to change to an IEC kettle plug and hook up the ground to the IcePower board. According to the B&O dev manual it's not necessary (like hell it isn't). Not a trace of hum or noise now. I'm aiming to have both speakers done by today.

    Sound is different but I can't really test it with only one speaker.


  • 02-12-2009 6:09 PM In reply to

    Re: Stage 1

    Finished converting both and the sound is AMAZING. :)

    It's hands down beaten my Cambridge Audio 540R

    Holy balony batman!

    Anyway pictures etc tomorrow.




  • 02-12-2009 6:29 PM In reply to

    • Dillen
    • Top 10 Contributor
    • Joined on 02-14-2007
    • Copenhagen / Denmark
    • Posts 5,008
    • Founder

    Re: Stage 1

    Yes, we need photos. I can't wait to see how it sounds...  Laughing

    Then maybe later we can listen to what it looks like ...


  • 02-12-2009 8:10 PM In reply to

    Re: Stage 1


    I can't wait to see how it sounds...  Laughing


    LOL... And for those who are listening in black & white... the next programme is in color!


    The race for quality has no finish line- so technically, it's more like a death march.

  • 02-13-2009 7:27 AM In reply to

    Stage 2

    Remove the bottom covers and plastic part. Cut the B&O connector wires :)

    Pull the right board out and flatten all the reverse component legs. These are quite long from the factory. Use a glue gun to dab over them, thus making the reverse of the board insultated. This last step probably isn't necessary but I felt better for having it so close to 250v.

    Depending on what sockets you have you need to make up a few connectors. I only had the the LED socket so all my other wires were to be soldered direct. The picture shows these little *** aches. I attached and soldered onto the purple, blue and green. The purple was the middle of the socket, the other two dont matter so much as you can just swap the LED in the display.




  • 02-13-2009 7:34 AM In reply to

    Stage 3

    The icepower board has connections as follows;

    • far right; speakers (left is +)
    • middle; input and signal sense (right is +, one next to it is -, pin 4 is sense and should be connected to +)
    • left is mains (any way round AC)

    Solder wires directly and use heat shrink especially on the mains connection. I used cheap speaker cable to do the middle and right sockets as it's good gauge for the terminals. The left I used heavier gauge stuff.

    For length, place the black penta base to the left and ensure the cable comes over the IcePower board and over the length of the black base.


  • 02-13-2009 7:38 AM In reply to

    Stage 4

    Get your drill out and fit an IEC kettle plug to the base. For the lead you'll need a right angle one available from Maplin for £4.99 each. Part number at end of HOW-TO.

    Also fit a phono socket to the side.

    You can solder up the wires trimming them as necessary to the new connections at this point. Keep the wires tight; there is no need for excess. Remember the AC and signal wires should not be kept together (dont cable tie etc)






  • 02-13-2009 7:40 AM In reply to

    Stage 4.5

    Forgot to mention, the picture above shows the ground connection in the middle of the board. You'll need a small eyelet and nut/bolt. This is essential or your will have an earth loop (hum).

  • 02-13-2009 7:49 AM In reply to

    Re: Stage 4.5

    On the middle board cut a red and black wire and fit a connector as shown. It doesn't matter which you cut. The speaker output from the IcePower will fit to this.

    Stick what was the right board into the middle, hook up all the wires back up. Insert the IcePower to the right. Push as far as you can, it will go snug against the bass-reflex port at the back. The speaker wire should go over the top, the AC and signal can be routed to the right.

    Glue gun the IcePower at the two edges just a tiny bit. That is all that is needed to secure it properly as it prevents it coming forward.

    On the second Penta I soldered the black base on after fitting the board as it made the wires shorter.

    Connect the IcePower speaker output to the connector on the middle board.

    Push the now middle board to the right against the IcePower. There's nothing that can short here. Do not tack the board in but leave it free.

    Fit the black base. The design means the raised back goes inbetween the left and middle board. This pushes the middle board against the back bass port and against the IcePower. Now nothing will move and everything is secure.

    Fire up! (The IcePower's switch into 0.5 power saving mode after 18mins (red led). )

  • 02-13-2009 7:54 AM In reply to

    Re: Stage 4.5

    Eyelet 3.2mm Maplin JH60Q (for ground connector)

    IEC320 chassis plug Maplin HL15R

    Right angled IEC wire Maplin AP08J

    LED - Maplin high efficency dual (can't find order code but it's easy to find)


    Use the glue gun on any wiring joints you suspect as being weak. I purposely designed the conversion the way I did so that any board can be removed quickly.

    Use a 3 AMP fuse.

    Heat shrink everything especially 250v mains!

  • 02-13-2009 8:11 AM In reply to

    Sound Quality

    A mate came over yesterday whom has no knowledge of good quality audio. I asked him to play a track he thought would stretch the speakers and see what he thought.

    I can't remember what he chose right now but on one he commented he hadn't heard it that way before. I thought he meant he had a remix or original. No, he meant the sound. In his words he experienced the same song in a new way. He sat there for a long time.

    Ever since the Tripath I knew Class D, when done well, could outdo Class A/B, but I am surprised at how well the IcePower's can out perform even Cambridge Audio's 540R, which in turn outdo's the Beolab 200 from the powered Pentas.

    The soundstage is breathtaking, the stereo is took to a new level while music is ultra sharp. The band is in the room with you. The IcePower's are seriously good.

    Power is remarkable better than I thought it would be. There is no distortion and it's really loud, helped of course by the Pentas 92db efficency.

    Thankfully there is no issue with over-powered treble or bass. Everything is naturally sounding.

    Sound quality is always a subjective argument but what I can say is they sound better than when powered by high quality A/B amps, they are still the best overall speakers I've heard in my 25yrs of living and the upgrade was very much worth it!

  • 02-13-2009 9:03 AM In reply to

    Re: Sound Quality

    Great job and a truly inspiring idea!

    If anything on the downside, I'd be extra careful with electrical insulation especially since the Pentas have so much exposed metal. It's very good you ended up with earthed live connections, but I would still put a sheet of sturdy cardboard or plastic between the ICE module and the crossover PCB, and add some supports to positively keep the low signal wires away from everything mains even when something comes loose.


  • 02-13-2009 10:08 AM In reply to

    Re: Sound Quality

    No metal inside the cabinet and all my points are insulated fine. I also added cable wrap around most cables. Obviously should only be attempted by those with common sense... :)

  • 02-13-2009 10:28 AM In reply to

    Re: Sound Quality

    I'll have to have a listen! I now have MS150s back home! If they are that good, I may commision you!Laughing

  • 02-13-2009 10:44 AM In reply to

    • Dave0280
    • Top 500 Contributor
    • Joined on 03-05-2008
    • Birmingham, UK
    • Posts 126
    • Gold Member

    Re: Sound Quality

    Snoopy - fantastic job and I, like you, think the Pentas are some of the best sounding speakers i've ever heard. Well done that man!

    Dave - Birmingham, UK
  • 02-13-2009 11:03 AM In reply to

    Re: Sound Quality

    Does this mean that the Power line always have to be earth'ed to avoid humming ?


  • 02-13-2009 12:29 PM In reply to

    Re: Sound Quality

    Erik-nl - My initial attempt used a figure-8 power connector (like on printers) and I had a seriously bad earth loop. I ended up fitting an IEC plug (pc, kettle type) though that meant finding a right angle lead as space is tight. In other words YES.

    Been playing them today and they really are awesome. The sound is so tight and precise.

    Still got to source a top for my left penta as previous owner damaged it a little. Otherwise all good.

  • 02-15-2009 2:02 AM In reply to

    Re: Sound Quality

    Great job.

    Where to go and buy 2 X 250Watt ASE ICEpower modules when
    normally only be sold by producers who have completed modules in the cabinets. ??

  • 02-15-2009 8:45 AM In reply to

    Re: Stage 1

    Hi Snoopy

    All this not clear for me. Does it mrean that the display will no loger display the ifnformation from a beomaster 7000. All this is replaced by a single dot ?

  • 02-15-2009 11:59 AM In reply to

    • Jandyt
    • Top 10 Contributor
    • Joined on 04-01-2007
    • Clitheroe, Lancashire, UK
    • Posts 13,004
    • Founder

    Re: Stage 1

    It never had a display to start with.
    It was Beovox Penta, not Beolab Penta.

    Andy T.

    Poor me, never win owt!

  • 02-15-2009 12:59 PM In reply to

    Re: Stage 1

    Understood now. But would it be possible to fit the ice power in to the base of a beolab penta and ofcourse by-circuit the original amplifier ? That is maintain the original display but use the aplified signal from the icepower ?

  • 02-15-2009 1:37 PM In reply to

    Re: Stage 1

    Yes, it would be perfectly easy to do this.

  • 02-16-2009 7:40 AM In reply to

    Re: Stage 1

    This guy will ship two for $235 delivered. Mine arrived in 6 days. He has 12 left.

    DelphiNJ at aol dot com

    You can convert your beolab Pentas back to beovox and keep the display if you want rid of the bottom bit. Should be a doddle to fit the board into the 150/200 base as well if that takes your fancy.

    It's been a couple days and the sound quality still putting a grin on my face. It's effortless at any volume and has so much punch. Beolab 150/200 operators will hear a remarkable difference.


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