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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>The Workbench</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/42.aspx</link><description>Advanced Technical Forum for discussion of  
Bang &amp; Olufsen products at component level.</description><dc:language>en</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2008 SP2 (Build: 31104.93)</generator><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/337744.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 07 Sep 2011 05:25:07 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:337744</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/337744.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=337744</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;That&amp;#39;s fine, but you MUST disassemble the pivot points and clean out the old gunk, before putting in new oil.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The reason is quite simple - with the old gunk in there, the solenoid is working very hard to overcome the friction, drawing a fortune of current, and is heating up, drastically shortening its lifetime. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;With the gunk removed, it&amp;#39;s working effortlessly, and cool. You can check the difference with an ammeter - it&amp;#39;s quite interesting to see the difference in current draw with a gunked up machine, as opposed to a clean machine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/337726.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 07 Sep 2011 02:18:41 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:337726</guid><dc:creator>Per-Ola Rike</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/337726.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=337726</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Just like to mention i just followed your recipe with my Beogram 4004, running smoothly except the tone arm would not lower. It had not been played for 16 years. Just a couple of clicks - no tonearm reaction. After some sewing machine oil onto the specified areas - voila - tone arm lowered! Thank you for the tip.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/227508.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 19 Sep 2009 17:33:43 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:227508</guid><dc:creator>Loris</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/227508.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=227508</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I definitely solved the problem running a wire from pin 5 of the 9 pin plug to the earthing screw of the amp :-)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Loris&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/226875.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 15 Sep 2009 14:58:44 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:226875</guid><dc:creator>Loris</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/226875.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=226875</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/Themes/beotheme1/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;tournedos:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;You probably need to run a ground wire from the chassis of the Beogram to the earthing screw on your amp.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;Well I did this but a certain amount of hum (unacceptable) did remain. I did a lot of trying, touching here and there with the ground wire but apart from a little reduction the hum was always there. It COMPLETELY/ABSOLUTELY stopped when I run a wire from the earthing screw of the amp to the aluminium &amp;quot;box&amp;quot; of the carriage. I mean COMPLETELY. EUREKA. Now: the carriage moves. Where do I screw a wire that makes the same effect? Why do this happen?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Loris&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/225766.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 08 Sep 2009 04:48:21 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:225766</guid><dc:creator>Loris</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/225766.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=225766</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Hi Manahem,&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;actually I didn&amp;#39;t solve the problem. After the removal of the phono board, I did the right connections, I have left and right signal &amp;nbsp;but I still have a lot of hum. I hadn&amp;#39;t much time to look inside the problem. With the board connected, I hadn&amp;#39;t this kind of problem, but only one channel worked. I thought it was an easy work, remove and reconnect but........&amp;nbsp;:-(&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Loris&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/225762.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 08 Sep 2009 04:25:43 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:225762</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/225762.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=225762</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Loris,&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Did you ever get this working?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I have just restored another BG6000 - type 5505, identical to yours, and among the many other problems, there was no sound from the left-front and left-rear channels. Voltage, yes, but the scope showed no sound.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The problem turned out to be a cold solder joint on C12, the timing capacitor on pin 9 for IC2 - LM565CN. Just for good measure, I resoldered the entire PCB.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I replaced all the electrolytics and tantalum capacitors - shortly, I&amp;#39;ll write up a full thread.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Menahem&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/219459.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 02 Aug 2009 15:39:36 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:219459</guid><dc:creator>Loris</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/219459.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=219459</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I run a wire from the earthing screw of the amp to the ground of the din exit cable, where there&amp;#39;s a cap between the wire and the chassis.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Completely no hum but the sound is poor. I&amp;#39;ll check why.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Loris&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/219383.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 02 Aug 2009 06:26:23 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:219383</guid><dc:creator>tournedos</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/219383.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=219383</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;You probably need to run a ground wire from the chassis of the Beogram to the earthing screw on your amp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/219366.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 02 Aug 2009 04:33:30 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:219366</guid><dc:creator>Loris</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/219366.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=219366</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I removed the riaa/cd4 board and made this connection, but the hum is higher than the music.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I checked the cable and it&amp;#39;s ok, but always high hum...&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Loris&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.UserFiles/00.00.01.19.70/IMG_5F00_0007.JPG" alt="" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218990.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 31 Jul 2009 04:13:31 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:218990</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218990.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=218990</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Excellent! Good work!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;So, now you understand why you don&amp;#39;t just go connecting 9-pin males into 9-pin females, even though they look like they are compatible.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;So now,&amp;nbsp;referring to the Service Manual,&amp;nbsp;find the Front Left and Front Right wires on the 9-pin FEMALE, and&amp;nbsp;CAREFULLY solder them to 2 thin insulated wires, and those to the Front Left and Front Right wires on the 9-pin&amp;nbsp;MALE connector.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;You can then connect the BG6000 to any amplifier with a built-in Phono-amp, and listen to the results.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Menahem&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218984.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 31 Jul 2009 03:41:17 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:218984</guid><dc:creator>Loris</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218984.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=218984</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Even if I&amp;#39;m not much into electronics, according to the manual ( section 3/11) this operation can&amp;#39;t be done. There are 3 pins with 12V dc for the power supply of the Riaa/cd4.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Loris&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218965.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 31 Jul 2009 01:01:23 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:218965</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218965.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=218965</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;1. Remove your MMC cartridge/stylus.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;2. Press play, and connect your multimeter (VDC)&amp;nbsp;- one probe to chassis, and one probe testing each one of the 9-pin&amp;nbsp;female sockets - see if there&amp;#39;s any voltage there in any of the sockets. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;3. If there is DC voltage, then don&amp;#39;t connect the 9-pin male-lead into the socket.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;4. The male connector has only line-out (no DC voltage), so you do not want to introduce DC onto that connection.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;5. Because the MMC is now out, you can trace the finger connections on the tracking-arm to the 9-pin female connector. Use your multimeter in the Ohms or Continuity function. Make a diagram, and write them down.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;6. Post that diagram back on the forum here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218894.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 30 Jul 2009 15:04:49 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:218894</guid><dc:creator>Loris</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218894.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=218894</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I removed the riaa/cd4 boards. If I connect the 9 pin male plug to the 9 pin female will I harm something? Will I get a standard 4002?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;thanx&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Loris&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218771.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 29 Jul 2009 22:43:59 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:218771</guid><dc:creator>auric</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218771.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=218771</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Well so first bypass the decoder.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;You need to eliminate all possible faults. It&amp;nbsp; may well be components on the decoder.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Actually you can still swap L+R going into the decoder. If the low output does not swap then it may be the decoder.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Menahem has lots of experience with the 6000 decoder board if that indeed is the problem but there is always the possibility of fixing something that ain&amp;#39;t really broke :)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 6000 / 4002 ToneArm not lowering - Lubrication Points</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218732.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:50:13 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:218732</guid><dc:creator>Loris</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/218732.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=218732</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/Themes/beotheme1/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;auric:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;You may also try to swap L+R wires inside the din shell. If the lower output channel moves from one to the other then it is likely also the cartridge. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;this is true if there isn&amp;#39;t a phono stage inside the 6000, but it&amp;#39;s there. if this board has some bad component...... this could be the problem&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Loris&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>