The Workbench

Re: Beolink 1000 Repair?

matapan — Fri, 14 Jan 2011 20:57:11 GMT

No joy. Thanks for the reply though.

Does anyone know what kind of discrete component exists on the left side of the board, approximately 3cm below the LED, with the component side facing up.

On my board it is light blue and has the inscription "3.64G" on it, along with some sort of symbol. Where there was voltage running across the two electrolytic caps, there was nothing across the terminals of this component.

Re: Beolink 1000 Repair?

tournedos — Fri, 14 Jan 2011 16:11:41 GMT

And, if it doesn't, there simply will be a day when you have to let go. Your Beolink 1000 has served a long and useful life. It'll be like 150 years old in plastic remote years

These can be repaired on component level to some extent (I think there's even a schematic somewhere), but if for example the custom microcontroller that is the "brains" has died, there's nothing you can do. It'll be time to get a new remote from fleaBay or something, and keep the good parts of the dearly departed for some future mechanical spare part needs.

If you see any traces of moisture or corrosion on the circuit board, it might be revived with a proper cleaning, otherwise I simply would not bother.

Re: Beolink 1000 Repair?

Stoobietoo — Fri, 14 Jan 2011 16:09:22 GMT

Hi,

It has worked for me and at least two others in the link I posted so hopefully he will be in luck :o)

Stoobie

Re: Beolink 1000 Repair?

Leslie — Fri, 14 Jan 2011 15:55:48 GMT

John, let us know if Stoobie's solution worked for you...

Leslie

Re: Beolink 1000 Repair?

Stoobietoo — Fri, 14 Jan 2011 15:46:26 GMT

Take a look at my posting in this thread & good luck.

http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/p/36423/301956.aspx#301956

Stoobie

Beolink 1000 Repair?

matapan — Fri, 14 Jan 2011 14:41:12 GMT

I've got a Beolink 1000 remote that doesn't work. It is the version that has the clear film holding the copper convex contacts over the PCB.

At first, I thought the battery compartment was corroded, so I bypassed the compartment and wired power directly to the PCB solder pads. No luck.

None of the buttons appear to work, so I don't think it's a matter of corroded contacts for now.

Any suggestions on how to proceed? Thanks.