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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>The Workbench</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/42.aspx</link><description>Advanced Technical Forum for discussion of  
Bang &amp; Olufsen products at component level.</description><dc:language>en</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2008 SP2 (Build: 31104.93)</generator><item><title>Re: BM4000 FM issue</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/280614.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 14 Jun 2010 07:52:26 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:280614</guid><dc:creator>Dillen</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/280614.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=280614</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;The design of the Beomaster 4000 and 4400 makes them&amp;nbsp;look strongly related on the outside but they have practically nothing in common inside.&lt;br /&gt;Circuitwise, the Beomaster 4000 is a larger 3000 where the 4400 has more in common with the later 6000.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Martin&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BM4000 FM issue</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/280611.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 14 Jun 2010 07:33:58 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:280611</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/280611.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=280611</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I don&amp;#39;t have the BM4000 circuit with me right now, but quoting from the BM4400 circuit (which is very similar IIRC), on the +35V and -35V circuits are 2 0.1uf caps, 1 between the AC and +35 rail, and&amp;nbsp;1 between the AC and&amp;nbsp;-35 rail.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;These are B40C800 (40V 800mA)&amp;nbsp;or B80C800 (80V 800mA), which can easily be replaced with the 11DQ10 (100V 1100mA)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;On the 15V circuit, those decoupling caps don&amp;#39;t exist.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I&amp;#39;m working on a restoration writeup of the BM4000, and it&amp;#39;ll go onto my website, but not just yet.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Menahem&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BM4000 FM issue</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/280604.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 14 Jun 2010 06:42:00 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:280604</guid><dc:creator>Dillen</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/280604.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=280604</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I am not sure which&amp;nbsp;film caps you are referring to.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The rectifier in the corner for the 15V supply is a known troublemaker.&lt;br /&gt;Slightly under-dimensioned and generally of a bad construction. Sometimes coming apart physically when touched.&lt;br /&gt;I like to replace&amp;nbsp;it on sight.&lt;br /&gt;If the&amp;nbsp;tuner itself is in good shape, it has excellent stability and will only drift if the&amp;nbsp;above mentioned&amp;nbsp;diode isn&amp;#39;t&lt;br /&gt;adequately thermically decoupled. It&amp;#39;s a fine circuit.&lt;br /&gt;Problems with the rectifier most often shows as hum on the Tape - and especially the Phono inputs&amp;nbsp;whereas the tuner&lt;br /&gt;seem to run fine even with only 3 of the 4 diodes still present in the rectifier. It&amp;#39;s a nice circuit.&lt;br /&gt;The axial 470uF cap (usually blue) nearby will also need attention, a 470uF 25V or even 40V will be nice here.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Martin&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BM4000 FM issue</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/280593.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 14 Jun 2010 04:18:47 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:280593</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/280593.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=280593</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I replace the FM section bridge-rectifier with 4 11DQ10 Schottky diodes for much more stable performance. If this is done, then the film capacitors (part of the old regular bridge-rectifier) must be removed.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Menahem&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BM4000 FM issue</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/275874.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 19 May 2010 07:48:54 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:275874</guid><dc:creator>burantek</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/275874.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=275874</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;It ran for over 8 hours last night... &lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/emoticons/02.gif" alt="Big Smile" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BM4000 FM issue</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/275804.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 18 May 2010 19:11:43 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:275804</guid><dc:creator>burantek</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/275804.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=275804</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Martin,&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Many thanks!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/Themes/beotheme1/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Dillen:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;There&amp;#39;s a diode mounted in a little bracket on the outside of the FM&amp;nbsp;frontend casing.&lt;br /&gt;It&amp;#39;s a capacitive diode and very sensitive to temperature changes which also explains why&lt;br /&gt;it is mounted to the metal housing using heatsink compound.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The diode in question: 138 / E3 / 8300038 on the IF DECODER BOARD - PC8002058? It is compounded to the case of the TUNER / FRONT END - 8050054 as you describe.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/Themes/beotheme1/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Dillen:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Next thing would probably be the rectifier&amp;nbsp;in the corner of the tuner board.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Is the rectifier located at E1 on the same board,&amp;nbsp;PC8002058? I do not see one on the TUNER / FRONT END.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, I decided to fire it up and get a better feel for just what it was doing ~2 years ago...&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Of course, it hasn&amp;#39;t burped in ~2 hours of playing!&amp;nbsp;&lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/emoticons/34.gif" alt="Super Angry" /&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/emoticons/58.gif" alt="Laughing" /&gt;&lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/emoticons/58.gif" alt="Laughing" /&gt;&lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/emoticons/58.gif" alt="Laughing" /&gt;&lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/emoticons/58.gif" alt="Laughing" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BM4000 FM issue</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/275787.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 18 May 2010 15:38:38 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:275787</guid><dc:creator>Dillen</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/275787.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=275787</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;There&amp;#39;s a diode mounted in a little bracket on the outside of the FM&amp;nbsp;frontend casing.&lt;br /&gt;It&amp;#39;s a capacitive diode and very sensitive to temperature changes which also explains why&lt;br /&gt;it is mounted to the metal housing using heatsink compound.&lt;br /&gt;As the compound dries the thermal connection is broken and the diode is free to heat up and&lt;br /&gt;change its charateristics.&lt;br /&gt;I suggest you check it and renew the heatsink compound.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Next thing would probably be the rectifier&amp;nbsp;in the corner of the tuner board.&lt;br /&gt;I like to replace it on every Beomaster as a matter of cause.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Still no luck, check the stability of the tuning voltage and let us know.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Martin&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>BM4000 FM issue</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/275779.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 18 May 2010 15:20:32 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:275779</guid><dc:creator>burantek</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/275779.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=275779</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Hi all,&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;In the midst of some gear re-arranging, I have decided to bring a 4000 back into active service.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I haven&amp;#39;t touched it in ~2 years... last time I did, everything worked beautifully (it is mint) but, I did have an issue w/ FM stations.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;As best I can recall (I will test again when I have more time) it would do something like this: Tuned into ANY station, it would play along fine, and then suddenly drop the station... not allowing to retune it at all! If I pulled it from the mains, it seemed to recover and then after a while -do it again.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I assume something is heating up and loosing connectivity... broken solder? Any ideas or perhaps a pointer as to where to look?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thx in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>