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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>The Workbench</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/42.aspx</link><description>Advanced Technical Forum for discussion of  
Bang &amp; Olufsen products at component level.</description><dc:language>en</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2008 SP2 (Build: 31104.93)</generator><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248650.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 29 Dec 2009 02:35:40 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248650</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248650.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248650</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Done!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;It was the JFET - Gate and Drain shorted. I had 14.5V on all 3 terminals G,D,S.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I put in a new 2N5245, and now (when the PSU has stabilized at 26.0V) there&amp;#39;s G (AFC ON) = -4.18V (SM shows -5.3V), AFC OFF = +14.3V, and D=S= +14.4VDC (SM shows +10V). &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I&amp;#39;ve checked all the components and other voltages down the line&amp;nbsp;in the AFC and detector balance circuits, all are OK, and I can&amp;#39;t find a reason for this discrepancy.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The discrepancy is just here at the FET (BTW - the same voltages whether the FET is installed or not (ala BM2000). Then again, the SM may be wrong - the AFC circuit&amp;nbsp;shows the same voltages&amp;nbsp;in both the BM2000 and BM3400, even though the resistor values are different.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it works incredibly well - it picks up distant stations in stereo, that other radios which I have, can&amp;#39;t even detect - so I&amp;#39;m inclined to call it a completed job, unless I have an inspired thought. (I did do a great&amp;nbsp;alignment job, if I may compliment myself!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248519.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 28 Dec 2009 08:33:17 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248519</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248519.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248519</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Whoops... not quite done yet.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I engaged the AFC after putting in the ZTK22, and AFC-on pulls the station way off center. Very distorted. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I think that the JFET is no good, as there is 14.5V on both Source and Drain&amp;nbsp;terminals, whether AFC is on or off (instead of 10V). &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I&amp;#39;ll&amp;nbsp;desolder it in the next couple of days, and try without the JFET at all, as in the BM2000. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I think that I&amp;#39;ll have to realign the Detector also.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248517.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 28 Dec 2009 08:20:28 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248517</guid><dc:creator>Die_Bogener</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248517.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248517</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are 2 specs (0.5W and 1.3W) for normal zener diodes and also for the ZTK types.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;ZTK were available in 0.5W and 1.3W, but most of them only in 0.5W. Usually the 33V type was a 1.3W, used in TV&amp;#39;s, the smaller values were 0.5W.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Because of the price for these ZTK types it is today cheaper to use real regulator chip than a diode for 2 Euros. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248516.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 28 Dec 2009 08:07:01 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248516</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248516.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248516</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;BINGO!!!!!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I went to my pile of old junk - I found a Philips carcass, and there was a ZTK22!!!!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I installed it, and it is reading 21.3V, but the problem is solved. All stations start up perfectly stabilized instantly, when the BM3400 is switched on.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I noticed something else very interesting:&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Before, with the regular Zener 22V, if I adjusted the 26V poti to less than 25.2V, the FM station would start destabilizing.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Now, with the ZTK22, I adjusted the 26V poti down to 23V, and the FM station stays locked on.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Also, I noticed that at switch-on, the 26V rail is only 25.4V, and it takes about 2 minutes to stabilize at 26V. But this is unimportant operationally, because the ZTK takes care of the stability, and the FM remains stabilized.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Martin, do I understand you correctly that there are 2 types of Temperature-Compensated Zeners - ZTK at 500mW and ZD at 1.3W?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;This is now a completed restoration - technically and cosmetically perfect! (But it did take a couple of years to get to this stage ;-)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thanks to you all!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248505.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 28 Dec 2009 06:59:38 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248505</guid><dc:creator>Die_Bogener</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248505.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248505</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;No, replacing a regular zener diode by a ZTK type makes no sense. ZTK diodes are really very hard to get, they are very rare and much more expensive. Lets say, 10 cent for a normal ZD22 is normal, but around 1.40-2.50 Euro for a ZTK type... that&amp;#39;s relative.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I would use a ztk type if you still can get one. They are very rare meanwhile... i could not find one with 22V, only 6.8V and 33V.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;And if not, use the 1.3W ZD type instead. The heat dissipation is better than the smaller 0.5W types.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA=2;GROUP=A422;GROUPID=2994;ARTICLE=23076;START=0;SORT=artnr;OFFSET=16;SID=31k6BlsqwQAR8AAB4Y-E47c85120fb756d2e1df1411c00a7668ce"&gt;http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA=2;GROUP=A422;GROUPID=2994;ARTICLE=23076;START=0;SORT=artnr;OFFSET=16;SID=31k6BlsqwQAR8AAB4Y-E47c85120fb756d2e1df1411c00a7668ce&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248502.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 28 Dec 2009 06:40:17 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248502</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248502.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248502</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I was very afraid that you were going to say that - they are almost impossible to find!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;At least now I know what ZTK means.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Is it worthwhile to use them instead of a regular zener?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248497.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 28 Dec 2009 05:55:59 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248497</guid><dc:creator>Die_Bogener</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248497.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248497</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;.........&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;5. I looked at D11 - it is located right next to the Oscillator can, below the 26V poti. In the SM, it is called a 22V regulator. The original was&amp;nbsp;a ZTK22 (damaged and NLA), and I replaced it witha 22V Zener. It is measuring 21.6V.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;........&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;A ZD22V zener diode is not a ZTK 22V diode.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;ZTK= Zener Temperature kompensated&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;ZD= Zener Diode&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Replace it with a ZTK type, these have a smaller temperature drift.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248471.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 28 Dec 2009 02:17:38 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248471</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248471.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248471</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Hi Martin,&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;1. Do you remember that you introduced me to Wima about 4 years ago? Since then, every cap which is 4.7uF and below, I replace Wima MKS or MKP automatically. Wima has a large warehouse in Israel, and they sell at prices well below the rest of the world, so it is a very easy choice.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;So, I already put these MKS2&amp;#39;s at the beginning of the restoration, many years ago. See the picture.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;(BTW, ALL resistors on PCB2 are also replaced by Vishay Dale CMF60 - I had to, because of the corrosion, but these are far more precise than the original carbon units)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;2. TR2/TR3 replaced by matched BC550C Low noise&amp;nbsp;- no improvement.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;3. 0C3 also replaced by MKS2 now - no improvement.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;4. I see an interesting phenomenon - I place my DMM probe at the 26V testpoint, and at switch-on, it is only 25.54V. It increases gradually, and after about 3 minutes, it stabilizes at 26.0V.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I always made my adjustments on any radio, after the radio has stabilized for about 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I should adjust the 26V when cold, and then after stabilizing, it would be about 26.4V?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;OR&amp;nbsp;should it be 26V immediately at cold switch-on, and remain constant at 26V&amp;nbsp;after warming up?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;5. I looked at D11 - it is located right next to the Oscillator can, below the 26V poti. In the SM, it is called a 22V regulator. The original was&amp;nbsp;a ZTK22 (damaged and NLA), and I replaced it witha 22V Zener. It is measuring 21.6V.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;6. At IC CA1310, pin 2 is 3.7V, and according to the SM, it should be 3V. Adjusting L3 did not make a difference&amp;nbsp;(I marked the point, but didn&amp;#39;t like to adjust, because I remember that B&amp;amp;O specifies not to touch these coils).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248438.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 27 Dec 2009 16:44:35 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248438</guid><dc:creator>Die_Bogener</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248438.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248438</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is interesting. This would mean, that something around TR2/TR3/C16/C17 is wrong, the tuning frequency with 18,4V ist affected.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Did you use electrolyth caps or plastic caps?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Original they used in this time tantalum caps a lot. They are complete different to todays electrolyth caps. Tantalum is polarized, but is not in its function identical to electrolyth. I would replace tantalum only by MKS or MKP bipolar plastic types.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Tantalum will survive wrong polarity with little currents, it will not be destroyed. But electrolyth will be destroyed after some minutes. Wrong polarity will need a &amp;quot;repair time&amp;quot; for a electrolyth cap, a tantalum does not need this.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Replace C16/C17 by a Wima 0,47uF type.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248420.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 27 Dec 2009 14:22:47 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248420</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248420.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248420</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;If I remember correctly, it was a tantalum, with high ESR.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I put in a regular Panasonic EB 1uF 50V electrolytic - any other recommendations - &lt;br /&gt;perhaps a low-ESR, or perhaps increase the uF being an electrolytic instead &lt;br /&gt;of a tantalum?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I just noticed that if I engage the AFC immediately after switch-on, the frequency stabilizes immediately and perfectly, with no waiting time. Does this indicate where to look, to eliminate the remaining delay?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248404.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 27 Dec 2009 13:35:29 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248404</guid><dc:creator>Die_Bogener</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248404.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248404</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;What about the cap 1uF 0C3 ?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;This one is a filter for the tuning frequncy?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248393.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 27 Dec 2009 13:08:24 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248393</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248393.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248393</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;OK, much better.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I don&amp;#39;t have the original components - this was rescued from the skip about 7 years ago, with water damage and corrosion almost everywhere on all the component leads. It was a massive job to cleanup!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the FM section got all new components, passives and semis. I cleaned out the coils as much as possible, and there was no apparent damage.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;However, I have good stock of most components, and the 3rd 15V Zener I tried was exactly 15V.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;There&amp;#39;s now 14.34V, up from 13.8V, and it&amp;#39;s now 10 seconds to full stability.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I replaced R45 off the IC and also D6 1N4148, but no further change in stability.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Menahem&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248380.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 27 Dec 2009 11:11:08 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248380</guid><dc:creator>Die_Bogener</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248380.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248380</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I would replace D5 for a better 15V zener diode, maybe temperature compensated. 13,8V or 14,3V makes a difference in FM units, since the frequency is adjusted with a voltage. A floating power supply will cause this problem.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;D6 could be defect and blown, this could cause this raising voltage...&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;R45: Maybe you remember the BM7000 potis for the &amp;quot;no load current&amp;quot;? They never measured defect, but it was the reason why all the BM5500-7000 shut off suddenly. Exchange it and make a new adjustment.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248378.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 27 Dec 2009 10:46:01 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248378</guid><dc:creator>Dillen</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248378.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248378</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Both voltages are important;&lt;br /&gt;The 14,3V since it supplies the FM frontend.&lt;br /&gt;The 26V&amp;nbsp;since it&amp;nbsp;supplies the AFC &amp;quot;balance&amp;quot; circuit.&lt;br /&gt;The TR7 emitter I would have expected a little higher and I think that&amp;#39;s where the main problem is.&lt;br /&gt;If you still have the original TR7 and zener(s), I suggest you try to remount them and check again.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Martin&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: BeoMaster 3400 FM station drift</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248372.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 27 Dec 2009 09:51:56 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:248372</guid><dc:creator>yachadm</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/248372.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=248372</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Martin and Martin - Thanks for your replies ;-)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I looked at the power supply, and changed C25 and C26 at the bridge - voltage is up to 31.8V from 29V&amp;nbsp;(still not 35V, but I think that&amp;#39;s our poor quality AC, even though I&amp;#39;m running it through a power conditioner).&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Time to frequency stability is much improved - now about 30 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;At R42, the (new) big 120ohm resistor, input is 26VDC (spot-on), but output - (at TR7 Collector) is not stable: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;When I switch on, it&amp;#39;s 17.8V, and it rises gradually. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;At 18.0V, the FM&amp;nbsp;frequency is nearly stable and listenable, but the L&amp;amp;R indicator lights are not equal yet. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;At 18.3V, the indicator lights are equal.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;(TR7 emitter is stable at 13.9V,&amp;nbsp;right from switch-on).&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I have replaced&amp;nbsp;ALL the parts in the PS circuit - from TR7 to the right.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;But (the new) D5 Zener 15V is showing 14.6V at the cathode - is that significant?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Martin Schmidt&amp;nbsp;- re R45 Poti - do you mean R54 Crosstalk Poti?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Martin Olsen - resoldered all connections on oscillator PCB, tapped the metal cap housings, to see if any change - none...&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Menahem&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>