The Workbench

Re: RL6000 cleaning

Paul — Thu, 30 Jun 2011 23:59:35 GMT

you're rights. It popped off with a gentle pry with a flat head screwdriver. I decided to remove the speaker fabric, and wondering what type of glue to use when I stretch new fabric because although it doesnt sit up agains most of the speaker, there are two grooves that the fabric gets glued into on the front of the speakers, and there is the logo that has to have the material glued up against. I'm thinking about fabric glue that dries clear. Just a light coating..

Re: RL6000 cleaning

tournedos — Thu, 30 Jun 2011 02:32:59 GMT

The gasket material is often so tight after all these years that they may appear glued. Use a bit of controlled force, prying little by little around the drivers, and they should come off.

Personally, I don't buy any of these "driver upgrade" stories unless the originals were crap quality to begin with - usually quite the opposite in B&O speakers! It won't be the same speaker any more, and I'm not at all convinced that the change would be for the better. They were carefully designed to work with the drivers that were put in there at the factory.

The crossover caps probably are ripe for replacement, and well worth the effort. You only need to replace the bipolar electrolytics (golden cans in the RL6000 crossover on the first page). Martin (Dillen) can probably furnish you with a ready kit with proper quality components if you don't care for shopping around.

I don't think wiring or connector upgrades will do much in a relatively small power speakers like these... I certainly didn't touch them in my 60.2s, and as I've said on several occasions, I love the sound of them.

Re: RL6000 cleaning

Paul — Thu, 30 Jun 2011 00:10:48 GMT

I've followed your directions and opened the first of my RL 60.2. However, the two larger speakers, although unscrewed, are 'stuck' on and I don't know how to pry them off. There are no remaining visible screws so I wonder if it's possible they are glued in? I'm also wondering if it is possible to upgrade any of the cones of this speaker and also which bits of the crossover to replace or upgrade, even if it looks all new. It's amazing how clean the inside of this speaker is. I can't believe it's over 30 years old... Also, do you think using thicker wire for the connections is prudent? maybe long copper like the DBS guys do

Re: RL6000 cleaning

Paul — Tue, 28 Jun 2011 23:03:23 GMT

so you used two layers of fabric? did you glue them down and were you able to retain the b and o text outline? had you considered getting the kit off ebay?

Re: RL6000 cleaning

rayfenwick — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 05:40:26 GMT

Hi Eugene

I don't know about anyone else, but I certainly have no complaints.

That ABR replacement looks a nice neat job, and it looks like that x-over has had some fun at some time... that resistor has been HOT!

Re: RL6000 cleaning

Eugene — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 18:12:06 GMT

No problem on the source. It was a "dress shop"/ cloth store.

The red material is something more or less used for sports jerseys and the like. Very transparent on the acoustic end. The charcoal black gray silvery stuff is liner material used as in between material on heavy fabrics. coats draperies etc.

When I went to the store with a sample of my old speaker cloth. The seamstresses that run the place knew exactly what I had and what I needed.

Got the red stuff for $1.92 a yard so I bought 2 yards. Enough to do two sets of redlines. The black liner material was a little more expensive. I thinks about 3 or 4 dollars a yard. It works, it is is transparent, stretches easily and in the case of the red material they offer other colors as well.

You could also try JoAnns if you have then down in the Carolina's.

Here are a few pics of the crosses out of my 60's and 60.2 which neither are the same as each other nor even like the one in Mika's photo. On the 60's I also had to install two Peerless passive radiators to replace the missing ABR's. That worked out well to.

Sorry for hogging up the page.

Re: RL6000 cleaning

burantek — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 08:59:57 GMT

eugene,

very nice!

i have a pearly red avant + bl6000's. your cloth is darn near a perfect match!

i have some light pulls on one of the frets. might i ask you the source/part#/color of your red fabric?

thanks in advance,

Re: RL6000 cleaning

rayfenwick — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 08:09:48 GMT

tournedos:

I like those, Eugene! Would look great in a suitable environment.

I agree. Very nice indeed. Thanks for the pics!

Re: RL6000 cleaning

tournedos — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 05:57:34 GMT

ouverture:

good to know, I am sure that if you sent the pictures to Keith or Lee again, they could re-instate them for us

Actually they are not that relevant - mine were apparently a very early pair, and the crossovers were constructed on chipboard. You're more likely to have real printed circuit boards, and the job will be much easier.

Anyway, here's the schematic from another thread - the left version is from the service manual, the right is what I had in my 60.2's. The bass & mid networks were identical with the manual version.

Re: RL6000 cleaning

tournedos — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 05:49:11 GMT

I like those, Eugene! Would look great in a suitable environment.

Re: RL6000 cleaning

Eugene — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 05:42:25 GMT

Sure Ray no problem.

Re: RL6000 cleaning

Jandyt — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 04:14:12 GMT

tournedos:

Tighten the screws, going from one position to the opposite like you were reinstalling a cylinder head. This will make you feel good.

Love it, Mika!

Re: RL6000 cleaning

rayfenwick — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 19:41:30 GMT

Eugene1960:

Recapping both set of my Redlines the 60.2 and the 60's made all the difference in the world. Wasnt really all that difficult. But Mika is correct in stating check your board. The cross on his set looks nothing like the cross on mine. As I recall my caps were 22uf 15 uf and two 6.8 uf for the 60.2 and 15, 10, 6.8 and 4.8 uf for the 60's. and then there are the resistor values which can be different.

I went ahead a reclothed mine while I was at it.

That's an excellent idea - for some reason I'd not thought about "colour changing" RL's.. is there any chance of more/bigger pics?

Re: RL6000 cleaning

rayfenwick — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 19:39:02 GMT

tournedos:

<snip>

I hope the readership finds this useful or at least entertaining.

I found it both! In my opinion these write-ups are one of the essential ingredients of BeoWorld, and I hope that posts like yours will encourage more people to create more - Great work.

Re: RL6000 cleaning

Eugene — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 19:31:38 GMT

Recapping both set of my Redlines the 60.2 and the 60's made all the difference in the world. Wasnt really all that difficult. But Mika is correct in stating check your board. The cross on his set looks nothing like the cross on mine. As I recall my caps were 22uf 15 uf and two 6.8 uf for the 60.2 and 15, 10, 6.8 and 4.8 uf for the 60's. and then there are the resistor values which can be different.

I went ahead a reclothed mine while I was at it.