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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>The Workbench</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/42.aspx</link><description>Advanced Technical Forum for discussion of  
Bang &amp; Olufsen products at component level.</description><dc:language>en</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2008 SP2 (Build: 31104.93)</generator><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/143075.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 20 Sep 2008 16:56:51 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:143075</guid><dc:creator>rosteu</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/143075.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=143075</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;success!!&amp;nbsp; &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;i never got the right oscilloscope readings, but decided to give it a go anyway - and it worked! (must have done something wrong with the scope...)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;well, thanks to the wonderful knowledge gathered in this forum i got a working mx4000 for 20 euro including spare parts. I also found a partly defect beolink 1000 for 15 euro that i managed to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;thanks again everyone!!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;arvid&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/142305.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 17 Sep 2008 09:40:01 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:142305</guid><dc:creator>rosteu</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/142305.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=142305</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;i choose the&amp;nbsp;toilsome&amp;nbsp;way and hooked everything up at the lab...&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;i also replaced C29 and C31.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;strange thing is that when connected to a 5V DC supply (as according to the service manual)&amp;nbsp;i dont get the described oscilloscope readings at any of the measuring points 1-4&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;i only get various&amp;nbsp;DC-readings across the bord. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;anyone have a clue?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/141510.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 13 Sep 2008 12:35:36 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:141510</guid><dc:creator>rosteu</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/141510.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=141510</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;ok, ive replaced TR1 and TR11 - both where dead, and checked all the caps around them (next time ill replace them instead, promise!!) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;so here is my dilemma: &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;i can borrow an oscilloscope from the laboratory im working at and do the 5V test (described in the service manual) but this will take some time and effort. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;just do as you suggested earlier and try with a 220V lamp instead of a fuse. if there is some defect that i missed, will TR1 and TR11 blow instantly?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;ps - found this nice post just a while ago - would have saved me some effort earlier on :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/thread/78511.aspx &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;thanks again for your time and knowledge!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/141304.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 12 Sep 2008 08:42:27 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:141304</guid><dc:creator>Die_Bogener</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/141304.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=141304</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;No... a defect cap looses some capacity, but they start working as a resistor, conducting currents ! This is the reason why transistors fail, the cap starts working as a resistor, the transistor&amp;nbsp;conducts a little bit, becomes too hot and fails. &amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;DO NOT MEASURE A CAP AND USE IT AGAIN ! Always replace it... saving money by using a used cap again does not work, literally &lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/emoticons/14.gif" alt="Devil" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/141297.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 12 Sep 2008 07:52:05 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:141297</guid><dc:creator>rosteu</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/141297.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=141297</wfw:commentRss><description>waiting for parts to arrive... i borrowed a better DMM - i can now measure capacitance. is it correct to assume that measurements are unreliable when in circuit? C31 gives 43.5u instead of 47u. could that be the cause?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/141058.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 11 Sep 2008 08:28:27 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:141058</guid><dc:creator>Die_Bogener</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/141058.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=141058</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Probably TR1 is dead, if you measure around 0.6 Ohm E-C ... so, replace BUT12. Very classic defect.&lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/emoticons/06.gif" alt="Sad" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;TR1 fails either by overvoltage on your powerlines or, much more likely, that C12 or some parts around this cap have a cold spot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;TR1 is part of the switch supply, C12 and the two coils/transformator. If one of these parts fails, TR1 conducts permanent or is permanent open. If TR1 conducts permanent, TR1 will overheat and blowes the fuse... and the LED will not light.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace TR1, C12 6.8nF, C29 and C31, 47uf and 100uf, that should be the first step. You could use a 220V lamp instead of a fuse... if it lights very bright, you have saved a fuses life and probably also TR1. &lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/emoticons/05.gif" alt="Wink" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140954.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 10 Sep 2008 16:07:03 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:140954</guid><dc:creator>rosteu</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140954.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=140954</wfw:commentRss><description>is there any other way to check if a cap is working as it should?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140952.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 10 Sep 2008 16:05:58 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:140952</guid><dc:creator>rosteu</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140952.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=140952</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;yes, im measuring disconnected&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;went through TR1-TR14, so far TR1 and TR11 seems to be out - the rest ok. How about capacitors? Is a broken cap the probable cause?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;thanks once again for all the quick replies!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;arvid &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;btw i dont think i can measure capacitance with my cheap DMM... &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140915.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 10 Sep 2008 15:35:41 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:140915</guid><dc:creator>tournedos</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140915.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=140915</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Certainly is. Shouldn&amp;#39;t show much of anything (you&amp;#39;re measuring it disconnected, right?).&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;While you&amp;#39;re there, check the small transistors that are driving the BUT12 (can&amp;#39;t remember their numbers). In my MX6000, the BUT took a couple of them along when it died...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140902.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 10 Sep 2008 15:23:26 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:140902</guid><dc:creator>rosteu</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140902.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=140902</wfw:commentRss><description>hmm, 0.6 ohms between E and C on TR1 - that means that it&amp;#39;s short circuited, right?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140886.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 10 Sep 2008 15:02:35 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:140886</guid><dc:creator>rosteu</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140886.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=140886</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;thanks for quick reply!! &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;fuse was blown, diodes D1-D4 ok (is it easy to check the filter?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;next i&amp;#39;ll check TR1 and C12&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;is it plausible that the fuse blows without any other faults?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;thanks again! &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140833.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 10 Sep 2008 14:13:12 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:140833</guid><dc:creator>Die_Bogener</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140833.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=140833</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Hi,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;if there is 0V over C9, then the fuse&amp;nbsp; F1 ( T3.15A) is blown, otherwise the filter T6 is blown or the diodes D1-D4.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think, it&amp;#39;s the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;... but if this fuse blowes, then there is a severe bug in the power supply. Usually TR1 BUT12 is defect, caused by a cold spot around C12 6.8nF.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;Check the fuse and tell us more &lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/emoticons/05.gif" alt="Wink" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Martin&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>another dead mx4000...</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140819.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 10 Sep 2008 14:00:09 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:140819</guid><dc:creator>rosteu</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/140819.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=42&amp;PostID=140819</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;hello&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I read an inspiring post about a dead mx4000 with a happy ending (http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/thread/91170.aspx)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;and
thought that I should have a go at a similar machine with a similar
problem. Its a mx4000 beo4 and it says &amp;quot;type:78/34 EDT&amp;quot; at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;symptoms are: no respons when connected to the mains - no standby light, no humming sound or anything like it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;i
measured 230V AC over P20-1 and P20-2 when connected - so its not a
broken power cord :) - but 0V over C9 (supposed to be 300) and 0V
between pin 1 and 6 on T6&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;if you have any clue or general tip - please respond!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;many thanks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;arvid&lt;/p&gt;ps
this might be a newbie question - while disconnected from mains I
measured resistance between the C and E pin of TR33 (since it was the
solution to the problem in the post I referred to) and got something
like 600kOhm. A high resistance, but still not totally separated -
would this mean that TR33 is broken?&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>