Vintage Products

Re: Is this correct ???

Eugene — Sun, 20 Mar 2011 22:02:41 GMT

All better now. Much much better in fact. Listening to Rob Zombie and then the Who "Who's Next" with the volume cranked up and the bass is crisp and clear. Sounds like a more powerful version of the original s45 uniphase. Much better balance of sound compared to the s50 which while decent in its own right is a bit bass heavy.

Re: Is this correct ???

Eugene — Mon, 14 Mar 2011 18:14:50 GMT

New surrounds ordered and on the way. In the meantime I dealt with these Peerless S45 drivers. Had a magnet up and slip on me. Luckily I was able to find a replacement quickly and so my world is right again.

While there is no precedent for magnet failure on the Peerless drivers used in the revised Uniphase series I am seroiusly considering laying a bead of epoxy on those drivers as well. Cant hurt.

I also reclothed one set of S45's.

Re: Is this correct ???

Eugene — Sat, 26 Feb 2011 06:05:05 GMT

I could always just paint the cabinets hot florescent pink. The hell with all this sanding, staining, resanding, restaining, resanding, top coating, resanding, recoating.

or I could just hook My Redlines back up.

Re: Is this correct ???

Premiumverum — Sat, 26 Feb 2011 03:34:14 GMT

Medogsfat:
Danish oil is indeed very good & gives a wonderful finish but needs revisiting annually.

And again I have learnt something new here on beoworld!

Re: Is this correct ???

Søren Mexico — Sat, 26 Feb 2011 00:20:40 GMT

The satin polyU. is a nice finish and will last for years, Linseed or Danish oil needs a treatment once a year. Boiled Liseed oil gives the same result as Danish oil, which is mainly Linseed oil with some additives to make it harder, but boiled Linseed oil is, like French polish, an old and traditional way to tread and protect wood.

I use marine grade satin polyU. on my newly installed doors in my house, Eugene wrote in the thread that she only laquer one time. What happens when you strip or grind of old laquer is that you comes down to raw wood, when laquering the first time the broken fibers of the wood will raise, striking the surface with your finger tips and you will feel a like sandpaper surface, after the first layer sand lightly until you have a smooooth surface and laquer again, the surface after the first layer is now hard and sealed and after sanding and second layer will stay smooth. Applying the second layer its important to work in a dust free environment, I do it in my garage, before applying it, I water my floor and wait one hour before applying, that binds the the dust. To get all dust of the surfaces I use lint free rags slightly humid, used after brushing clean the surface.

I dont like this kind of work so for me French polish is Polish for me

Re: Is this correct ???

Eugene — Fri, 25 Feb 2011 16:25:04 GMT

Medogsfat:

I have a sneaky feeling that Eugene (like myself) would like to finish the cabinets & have done with them, never having to touch them again other than general cleaning/polishing. Danish oil is indeed very good & gives a wonderful finish but needs revisiting annually. That's why I always French polish my cabinets - fairly work intensive to get the desired finish but it will last a lifetime when you achieve it.

Chris.

and you are right Chris most likely the will be top coated with a satin poly urethane based finsih. I could clean ir with a wash cloth from then on.

Re: Is this correct ???

Medogsfat — Fri, 25 Feb 2011 15:10:33 GMT

I have a sneaky feeling that Eugene (like myself) would like to finish the cabinets & have done with them, never having to touch them again other than general cleaning/polishing. Danish oil is indeed very good & gives a wonderful finish but needs revisiting annually. That's why I always French polish my cabinets - fairly work intensive to get the desired finish but it will last a lifetime when you achieve it.

Chris.

Re: Is this correct ???

Premiumverum — Fri, 25 Feb 2011 05:49:04 GMT

Hi Eugene,

About the woodwork: what Soren says probably works good but what usually is advised here is Danish Oil: it will give a finish just like the original on the loudspeakers wood. Some like to use beeswax. There are some threads around on wood restoration, give it a search!

Good luck with the refoam!

Re: Is this correct ???

Craig — Thu, 24 Feb 2011 18:54:33 GMT

Eugene:

My solution at the time was a bit of that blue painters tape affixed to the cone I then pulled the cone to center the driver and taped it to the speaker frame. It actually worked until the new surrounds arrived from Holland a few weeks later.

seen a similar repair done to two pairs of M75's I bought a few years ago. They had used brown parcel tape though. You could tell it had been there for few years too. They were aligned though as the coils were fine. Some new rings, and they were perfect.

Craig

Re: Is this correct ???

Evan — Thu, 24 Feb 2011 18:09:31 GMT

Shimming was no problem and from what I could tell the spider was fine.

The unit was used extensively with the damaged ring.

Re: Is this correct ???

Dillen — Thu, 24 Feb 2011 12:21:52 GMT

Did you shim up the coil/center piece ? And if you did, was it difficult to get it right ?
The spider ?
Did the woofer play for a long time with the bad surround ?

Martin

Re: Is this correct ???

Evan — Thu, 24 Feb 2011 11:23:28 GMT

To me, glueing the foam ring to the underside is commonplace. Recalling all of my speakers, I can not think of any of the top of my head that are mounted differently. I may be forgetting some though.

Re: Is this correct ???

Evan — Thu, 24 Feb 2011 11:19:40 GMT

As a surprise for my father, I refoamed an old pair of his speakers for him. The foam lip was originally glued to the underside of the cone, so that's what I did. One speaker turned out great. The other scratches and so forth low/midway on the volume scale.

Martin, do you remember? We talked about it for a couple days. Could this contribute to my problem?

Re: Is this correct ???

Søren Mexico — Sun, 20 Feb 2011 10:58:24 GMT

Maybe it will help if you turn the speaker facing against the wall, then it would play kind of backward and compensate for the bad surround, then you could mount the fret to the back and you'r done

Come on girl, refoam, and tell os how it went.

Re: Is this correct ???

Dillen — Sun, 20 Feb 2011 07:17:55 GMT

As Søren suggested earlier, fitting the surround behind the cone like this
introduces a certain pre-tension on the cones axial movement.
In other words, it will initially move easier one way than the other.
That is bound to give distortion.
There could be another fault but I would correct this before eventually diagnosing further.

It's much more difficult to reverse mount the surround like this than to do it the
traditional way. Cleaning it off again could also prove a bit difficult.

Martin