Vintage Products

Re: Beovox 5000 Type 6206 restoration

casdave — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 15:24:16 GMT

Getting to the crossovers is something of a pain because the backs do not come off, you have to go in by removing the woofer.

You will want to wear something to protect you from the itchy rock wool lining, and if I were you I would take all the rock wool lining out before starting. Also put a dust mask on and perhaps something to protect your eyes. Once you have the lining out, get the inside vacumed out for any remaining fibres.

Once you have removed the woofer, by desoldering, you have to unbolt the crossover unit, this is the panel whose other side has the eq switches on it.

One issue here is that the nuts and bolts are locked using another nut, and it isn't at all easy to get everything spaced right when reassembling, be sure not to lose any nuts either.

You simply must purchase the correct size nut runner or the job verges on the impossible if you try it out with small spanners, or pliers.

I would get into it and remove just one nut, take it to a toolshop and get the right size of nut runner.

If I remember correctly not all the nuts you can see are there to hold the panel in place, some are there to hold the large dropper resistors in place.

This is a job in a small space and its very three handed, once you start you'll understand exaclty what I mean.

It will help if you have someone wih a screwdriver to hold the blots in place from the outside of the back panel while you unscrew them, and eventually when you tighten them.

I've only taken a look at the job, there was a resistor flapping around loose and it was a bad enough job putting that back in place.

I haven't had a go at doing the capacitors which will undoubtedly need doing one day. I would be tempted to put some solid state capacitors in place rather than electrolytics, you only want to do this job once - ever.

Re: Beovox 5000 Type 6206 restoration

Craig — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 13:15:06 GMT

Xseries:

It always surprised me how thin the cabling was on some of the older Beovox models.

Were there different sizes of cable when these older speakers were made, or was it just a standard size?

Craig

Re: Beovox 5000 Type 6206 restoration

Xseries — Sun, 22 Feb 2009 19:16:48 GMT

I would go for thicker cable!

You should be able to drill the required hole in the recess - but make sure you check what might be hidden first!

It always surprised me how thin the cabling was on some of the older Beovox models. I am not taken in my special gold / platinum/ other types - but a few more strands would reduce the resistance!

Brian

Re: Beovox 5000 Type 6206 restoration

Peter — Sun, 22 Feb 2009 15:11:02 GMT

I see no problem with you either replacing the wire or installing connectors. These speakers are often simply scrapped so if you plan to use them, that is great. The backs are not that special anyway! I would certainly think about replacing the capacitors - I am about to do something similar to a pair of mark 3s! Remember to take out the drive units before restoring the cabinets - wire wool does no good to the drivers!!

Beovox 5000 Type 6206 restoration

Nis — Sun, 22 Feb 2009 12:23:13 GMT

Hi,

I have just picked up a pair of Beovox 5000 Mk I, Type 6206 in quite good conditions. Practically no scratches, only e few spots, probably from water. Would be no problem restoring the veneer.

But I have a few questions:

The speaker cables has been cut; they are only around 2 meters long and as normal they look very "smokey" / dirty. And as they are relatively thin, I'm considering being able to connect the speaker with thicker cable. I'm seeking information on the following:

1) Replacing the cable with a new cable of the same thickness.

2) Replacing the cable with thicker cable. This probably require, that I drill the hole a bit bigger, to accomodate thicker cable.

3) Install high-end connectors, that can accomodate thicker cables, spades, banana connectors, etc.
Would drilling holes for such connectors been considered demolishing a pair of vintage Beovox 5000 speakers?

Additionally I would like know, if, when I have made access to the inner of the speaker, should replace the capacitors. Is the cross-over constructed in a way, that makes it easy to replace the capacitors?

I look forward to - as always - get experienced answers from Beolovers.

Best regards

Nis