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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>BeoGram </title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/29.aspx</link><description>Have a specific BeoGram Record Deck related question? Ask here.</description><dc:language>en</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2008 SP2 (Build: 31104.93)</generator><item><title>Re: Beogram 8000 repair</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/226961.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 16 Sep 2009 09:48:16 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:226961</guid><dc:creator>chartz</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/226961.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29&amp;PostID=226961</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Thanks Martin.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Something I&amp;#39;ve noticed on the 8000 is that the arm slows down near the beginning of the discs (EP or LP) and then continues moving very slowly as to adjust precisely where it will land then hits the surface of the record. Not so on the 6006. The arm goes directly where it should go then lowers down.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The pendular suspension adjustment posed me no problems on the 6006, but it is very tricky on the 8000. The manual says the upper edge of the turntable (platter) should be 2 mm above the aluminium surface of the deck, and I exactly got to that.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;However, on the 8000, I can&amp;#39;t adjust it properly. If I try to do it, the subchassis fouls the top of the table... so the platter is slightly under the level of the aluminium top plate. I was thinking a pierced thrust pad, but it is fine (and the tachodisc is centered correctly).&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Beogram 8000 repair</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/226886.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 15 Sep 2009 16:19:18 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:226886</guid><dc:creator>Dillen</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/226886.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29&amp;PostID=226886</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;So one more deck rescued, well done&amp;nbsp;!&lt;br /&gt;Soundwise they shouldn&amp;#39;t be all that different, they are completely identical machines apart from&lt;br /&gt;the color of the front panel buttons and the lettering on top. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;And&amp;nbsp;I WILL find a leaf spring for the other deck. I haven&amp;#39;t stopped looking.&amp;nbsp; &lt;img src="http://forum.beoworld.org/emoticons/05.gif" alt="Wink" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Martin&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Beogram 8000 repair</title><link>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/226862.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 15 Sep 2009 12:16:35 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">41a2a90c-3a1e-4bd3-b144-3883695a7f38:226862</guid><dc:creator>chartz</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/thread/226862.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>https://archivedforum.beoworld.org:443/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29&amp;PostID=226862</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Hello,&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I am now in possession of a nice Beogram 8000, no scratches, nice lid. I got it cheap because I wanted parts for my 6006, especially the damn leaf spring for the lid.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The seller told me the PSU was busted. It was not: the connector had just found its way inside the block (no contacts then!), and in fact the deck works! I had to replace the tachodisc though, but I had a spare one, so no problem here. A couple of bad solder joints too.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The arm was a mess as always, but I managed to get it work fine. There was an MMC20CL attached, but alas no cantilever!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The problem now is the relay is not synchronised to the lift mechanism. I can hear the sound before the relay clicks, with the arm lowering down at the correct speed. Also, when I pause, the same thing happens, the relay clicks too late.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Otherwise it sounds just great, better than my 6006, heavens knows why, with the same cartridge and cable!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>