BeoWorld North America

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

yachadm — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 09:37:42 GMT

I haven't ever opened a CD50, and it is different (being a Japanese transport) to all the other B&O CD's on which I've worked (with Philips transports), so I can't comment on "HOW TO" here.

But I'd like to offer a "WHAT" - being the lubrication.

I am not happy with lithium grease on plastics, being that it dries out, and at some point, one has to disassemble everything again for a cleaning.

For me, Silicon Spray is absolutely the only lubricant to use for plastic-to-plastic contact. It is super-slippery, super-thin, does not harden or dry out, and one of its inherent properties is that it is very kind to plastics, in fact inhibiting chemical breakdown.

Menahem

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

KCkid — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 16:55:28 GMT

I have a tube of white lithium greese and agree and will use it on the plastic gears i have cleaned all of the brass with gun solvent and dried and then cleaned with rubbing alk. I then used a high quality gun oil on the brass. Thanks again to all of you of you for the gentle direction, It was a hard job and the worst being cleaning the old sticky black ooze the old belt had turned into on the HARD TO REACH motor drive pully . I have taken one last picture of the correct position of the belt placment for future brave soles who want to attempt to change their own belts. I will post again when and if it plays the first CD.

David

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

Dillen — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 14:23:45 GMT

I agree with Mika.

Regarding lubricants, the most important thing is to clean off all the old
dried lubricants since this is what brakes the whole mech.
A combination of IPA, cloth, pipe-cleaners, cotton buds and patience will usually do.
The brass rods can sometimes hold on to the dried stuff very stubbornly
and you may have to use a little steelwool (gently) to get to the
bottom of it. The brass rods should be all shiny.
When cleaned, it's quite common to see it able to run fine dry but
because of the stress that exists on some of the gears, I would also
recommend a little (thin) silicone grease.

Martin

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

tournedos — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 13:13:04 GMT

Oh yes, sorry, I noticed your question but forgot to answer. The optimal lubricant would be silicone grease (NOT silicon paste, which is a totally different substance!). I have personally used lithium grease which you can find in auto parts stores (the white kind in "toothpaste" tubes). It's a good all-around lubricant for these bigger caliber sliding and rotating parts you will find in many B&O kit. Sewing machine oil for the little parts.

In a pinch, anything that isn't too thick but won't evaporate either, and especially is not corrosive, can be used. This gearing is worth the "right stuff" though as it is hard work to redo it.

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

KCkid — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 12:55:28 GMT

tournedos:

This comes out from fading memory, but that's not where the belt is supposed to go. In your photo, straight above the grooved pulley, you can faintly see a brass pulley - that is the tray motor and the other side of the belt belongs there The plastic gears take care of the rest.

Ok i see it now thanks, now i just need the lubrication question answered and i will put her back together. Thanks Mike

David

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

tournedos — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 10:34:44 GMT

This comes out from fading memory, but that's not where the belt is supposed to go. In your photo, straight above the grooved pulley, you can faintly see a brass pulley - that is the tray motor and the other side of the belt belongs there The plastic gears take care of the rest.

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

KCkid — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 09:56:14 GMT

Dillen:

It lifts straight up and off.
But you MUST mark the tray and gear together.

Martin

Thanks Martin, it did finally come off. I used an allen wrench as a pry bar gently pushing equally on three side, it was a very thight fit. What was left of the belt was a gummy mess on the gruved wheel, i cleaned it off and have the belt in what i think is the correct position. I never saw where it went so i am just guessing it has to go around the drive wheel bottom. Do i have it right? Also what type of lubrication should i use on the gear wheel faces and studs the wheels go on? Thanks for the quick replys and help,very much appreciated!

David

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

Dillen — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 05:42:07 GMT

It lifts straight up and off.
But you MUST mark the tray and gear together.

Martin

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

KCkid — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 00:05:50 GMT

Indeed it does screw off counter clock wise. I am now trying to remove the large gear wheel by wiggling it and pulling strait up at the same time but it does not want to release.

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

KCkid — Sat, 20 Mar 2010 23:32:05 GMT

Dillen:

There are two set screws and then it screws off.
Make sure to mark EVERYTHING, some of the gears are put together in a special way (coded)
but bears no markings of this, and they need to be put back together in the exact same way.

Martin

EDIT: I noticed the black marks on some of the gears, this is what I mean.
You need to make a similar mark on the edge of the CD tray as this also forms part of the gearing.

There was only one set screw on the inside hole and as stated i already have it loose. Yes i made the index markings, as for the cd tray i have it pulled out to its stop and considered that a good index for the tray gearing.

So it screws off counter clockwise ? Thanks,I will try it.

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

Dillen — Sat, 20 Mar 2010 18:09:13 GMT

There are two set screws and then it screws off.
Make sure to mark EVERYTHING, some of the gears are put together in a special way (coded)
but bears no markings of this, and they need to be put back together in the exact same way.

Martin

EDIT: I noticed the black marks on some of the gears, this is what I mean.
You need to make a similar mark on the edge of the CD tray as this also forms part of the gearing.

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

KCkid — Sat, 20 Mar 2010 17:19:58 GMT

After a long delay i have a snow day on the first day of spring so decided to finish with the belt install. I have the tray up and out of the way and have decided the large wheel has to be removed along with one smaller wheel to gain acess to the belt wheel. The large wheel is trapped by a brass splined capture cap as seen in the attached photo, a set screw secures it to the splined shaft,which i have already loosened. It seems some sort of epoxy or lock tite has been applied to the top. i have tried pulling it off with vice grips but it is not moving. Question is,do i need a special small puller to remove it without damage?

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

Stonk — Thu, 10 Dec 2009 17:41:28 GMT

KCkid. To add pictures...

When you reply there are four tabs at the top. Compose, Options, Related & Preview.

Click on Options then under File Attachment (at the top) click on add/update to choose your file.

Don't worry, you're not alone - it is a bit obscure

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

KCkid — Thu, 10 Dec 2009 15:22:52 GMT

I had to losen the arm and the actuator plate on the front side to lower the door enough to access and remove the screw. After i had the door open the large gear wheel turned freely and I opened the tray by hand ,the belt was broken, took a picture but again i could not coach the goofy upload software to work. Thanks again i will contact and order a belt from Martin.

Re: Beogram CD50 tray will not open

tournedos — Wed, 09 Dec 2009 03:40:59 GMT

The door flap is connected to the arm with a tiny screw from the side, just disconnect it. However, the arm itself will eventually have to come off as well as it obstructs one screw you'll need to get at later. The screw at the rear is just an end stop, the actual adjustment is done where the arm guide screws to the bottom plate (an oblong hole). At some point, you'll need to remove the loading tray itself. I think it was rather obvious once the top part of the mech is out of the way - this means the whole top module (four screws through rubber bumpers), don't go messing about with the laser unit or the spindle motor separately.

I don't think you can see the belt from anywhere until the loading mech is exposed. If the large wheel is very stiff, the belt may still be OK but just can't deliver enough torque to move the seized mechanism. You'll have the same dismantling job ahead anyway as you need to clean and relube the gears - they are probably frozen on their axles. If you need a new belt, Martin (member Dillen on site) can supply you with one that surely fits the purpose.

Yes, the picture attachment feature could be easier... you can attach a singe image per post: while composing, click on the "options" tab and you find the uploading link. If you have images hosted elsewhere, you can use the "insert/edit image" icon too to add just an inline link for it.