General Forum

Re: Beolink 7000 power Off/On fix – A Project

MartinM — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 20:02:31 GMT

Just to clarify; Right arrow=Not ok ; Down arrow=ok
P5 is the connector for the flat white ribbon cable, pin 1 furtherest away from transformer.

Re: Beolink 7000 power Off/On fix – A Project

MartinM — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 18:14:34 GMT

I've copied this from the service manual that may also assist in fault finding.

Re: Beolink 7000 power Off/On fix – A Project

Leslie — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 14:48:10 GMT

Has somebody else followed MartinM's solution and did it indeed solved the on/off issue? Will give it a try myself as soon as I have the caps. Cheers will hopefully follow

Great post by the way

Re: Beolink 7000 power Off/On fix – A Project

Beolab1 — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 14:27:05 GMT

Congratulations!!! What a great post! You have solved a problem that drove many Beoworlders crazy!!!

Re: Beolink 7000 power Off/On fix – A Project

MartinM — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 14:09:56 GMT

That hadn't occurred to me, but what a great idea. You have got me thinking now! The original floor stand is a little hard to come by, so why not make one?!

I'll post up a thread on the lithium battery replacement. It's on the ever growing to-do list.

Re: Beolink 7000 power Off/On fix – A Project

lausvi — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 11:14:10 GMT

Excellent post!

I replaced some caps on my BL7000 and I tried to see their values from the previous posts on the forum - your post would have made it so much easier! Great photos, too.

I hadn't thought of opening the charger/base unit. Looking at the photo I got a wild idea; how about making your own floor stand for the BL7000?! At least four chargers are available at LifeStyle-AV. The bottom part would include the power supply (and some weight to keep the stand steady) and the whole upper part (or just the connector to the BL7000) could be used as the top of the stand. The stand itself could be modified from a music stand or made completely from scratch.

Threads like this should have a special place on the forum to keep them up. Could we have a sub-section of Workbench -section called "Repair guides" or something like that? Or just pin them under Workbench. Or add a link to these posts in the product pages?

Re: Beolink 7000 power Off/On fix – A Project

burantek — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 07:40:10 GMT

MartinM:
After an overnight charge the BL is up and running again.

Excellent news and thanks for the CAP specs! As soon as I have the other 98 projects done, I will come back to this, the 99th!

Thanks and keep us posted re: the lithium battery.

Beolink 7000 power Off/On fix – A Project

MartinM — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 02:26:14 GMT

A while ago I replaced the capacitors around the IR transmitter and receivers which resolved the “No Contact” issue. Now it’s time to tackle the next problem, one that has been covered on this site before but I thought I would add my own experience in as well.

The issue of late is that if the remote is off the charger, after about 10 minutes of use the status display will flash, followed shortly after with the remote powering off, then on again. This cycle repeats until finally the remote is dead altogether. If I place it back on the charger it powers up and can be operated without any problem.

I had a look at the service manual and that partly describes the issue. The fix being to replace module 1 – Analogue Board. Err, that’s not an option. So here is what I’ve done

Base of Beolink flipped open to expose “Board 1 – Analogue Board”. From other threads I’ve read, the large blue Vishay axial cap gives problems. So I removed and tested that first. The ESR was way out of spec! This cap is 680uF 10V which I couldn’t find so used a Vishay 680uF 16V instead. This was physically slightly larger at 10mm*18mm but still fitted ok. The smaller Elna 220uF cap was ok but figured that since I had removed it to test I might as well replace it. A replacement Nichicon (PW) 220uF 10Vcap was used. Again this is physically larger than the original at 8mm*11mm but there was still enough room to accommodate it.

View of Analogue board with new capacitors mounted.

Next is the battery pack. The “Original” had no markings at all and I suspect is anything but original. As I don’t know how old it is I decided to replace it. Couldn’t find any pre made battery packs that I felt were suitable so went ahead and made my own. I’m not convinced about the long term reliability of using NiMH batteries. I’ve therefore used what I believe to be batteries of similar spec to what would have been in the BL to start with.

Here I’ve glued together and soldered in series five Sanyo NiCd 1.2V 700mA batteries. These require a charge of about 70mA for 14-16 hours.

Last on the list is the Charging base itself. While strictly not necessary, I decided to recap this as well considering the caps are 20+ years old. Two caps to replace here.

After an overnight charge the BL is up and running again.

Next on the to-do list is replace the Lithium cell battery. I wish I had done that when I did the Recap for the “No Contact” issue fix. My concern here is that if it is very old it could leak.