Hi, I was directed to this forum through viynlengine for my 3404. I've tried searching to no avail. I don't know if my tag words are to vague or if I'm not searching in the right places. Hopefully you guys can help me out. The problems with my table are that the start function doesn't work. Every once in a while the start button will click (electronic click, not the actual sound of the button) like it's about to work but then nothing. The only way the table will spin is if I hold the turn button down, as soon as I release it it quits. If holding the turn button down the stop and pause buttons work. They will only function though if the turn button is held down. Everything seems to be in good order, no fried capacitors or blown fuses. The soder joints seem healthy. If anyone could just point me in the direction of where to look it would be greatly appreciated. It is also doing the speed issue where it spins faster than it should but it is corrected by switching from 45 back to 33. 

If this thing is really a mess I'm not too worried about it. I picked it up with a good cartridge and it could be quite a clean doner table for $35. 

I look forward to your input. Thanks, Josh

Welcome to Beoworld.  I think the deck will only operate fully when a record is on the platter as the black centre disc acts as a sensor.  Try with a record on the deck.  The record spins with the button you mention so you can clean the disc without the tonearm moving into the way.

Josh:

Welcome to Beoworld.  I have two working 3404's back at the house.  Being a US-only model, the 3404 doesn't get much ink here in the forums.

Davefarr is correct.  The 3404 - like many BG's - is designed NOT to move the tonearm unless a record is on the platter.  Have you tried the deck with a record on it?  The "turn" button is indeed for use in cleaning the record. 

Here's the ritual as I believe B&O intended: (1) open dust cover and put a record on the deck; (2) while holding down the turn button, lightly press a record cleaning brush to the record as it spins; (3) when you're satisfied the record is clean, let go the turn button and put down the record cleaning brush; (4) close dust cover, press play.

My two 3404's were purchased from Ebay this past summer and both were shipped to me without the transport screws tightened.  Both decks arrived in working order.  I have had to refasten mass-adding ring to the underside of the platter, but other than that, they were pretty robust machines to survive shipment to me.

Have you been trying to operate the 3404 with a record?  Which cartridge did you get with the deck?

Thank you for the warm welcomes and the help. Well I don't feel to bright. It works flawlessly. I was convinced that  center trigger was to detect whether it was a 12 or 7 inch. I'm glad I hadn't done anything drastic yet. I did almost buy a 1700 with no cartridge locally for 50 bucks though. Glad I didn't do that either! The cartridge that came with it is an MMC20EN. Looks to be original. B&O on the side. The subplatter is a little bit warped I think. I don't think it was ever moved with the transport screws secured and when it was moved around with the platter on. I'll live with it for now!

Man I'm super excited now. Ok I have a few more questions now!

Is ebay the easiest place to find the aux apapter cable?

Just as soon as I figured out it works the motor froze. It took moderate pressure using finger and thumb to pop it loose. Should probably clean and reoil the bearing? Pretty simple motor to disassemble?

What other maintinence would be good to run through on this table?

I do need to find a template to check the speed as well.

Don't feel too bad, it's a relatively common mistake.  But you did give yourself up as a n00b! 

Well, to address some of your comments and questions:  personally, I can't help much because my 3404's have never had any problems, save the ring on the underside of the platter.  I ripped mine off and reattached using a two-part epoxy from Lowes.

The MMC20EN is an excellent cartridge, one step below the top of the line model of that era, the MMC20CL.

You may want to pick up the 1700 anyway.  On this forum, it is probably the highest regarded, relatively easily obtained radial deck.

As for the adapter cable - do you mean a five (or seven) pin din female on one end, and L/R RCA plus ground lead on the other end?  I have two (or three) of those somewhere around the house.  Be happy to send you one.  Send me a private message (PM) if you're interested.  Click on my username to the left to initiate a PM to me.

For your flywheel issue read here what I did with a BG 6500, the whole thread is here

Got to the flywheel from the BG today, took of the center plastic piece and set up the wheel in my lathe, first checking the center shaft for damage, Measuring 0.005 mm. circumference difference, but that may be my lathe chuck, the outer ring on the wheel is another story, 9.0 mm up-down difference, band surface 0.5 mm circumference difference.

With the top side of the wheel resting against, and the center shaft in, the chuck, using a pointed cutting steel as guide I set my dial on the sledge to "0" on the highest point of the wheel, turned the wheel 180 degrees and marked the lowest point, back to the high point, with the sledge I carefully put pressure on the wheel, went back to "0" on the dial and checked the movement, I had to put on pressure some 5-6 times before the wheel started to respond to the pressure, when, with my dial on "o" ,I had a distance from the high point to the cutting steel,of some 2 mm,. I turned 180 degrees and checked the lowest point, and so on untill I was within 1 mm of difference, now I put on pressure on the highest point and checked after each time the whole circumference after 1.5 houer I had an up-down difference of only 0.2 mm. Acceptable, the circumference difference on the band surface is below 0.1 mm.

Inserted the wheel in the BG and there was now a sliding sound nearly all way around, sliding on the support taps on the swing chassis.

Center to high (or outer ring to low), back to the lathe, center shaft in a drill chuck, upside wheel center to drill chuck, and with outer ring against the lathe chuck, bend the center to a lower position, again 5-6 tries with pressure before I got a result, back to the BG, now the wheel is running free and very light.

Put on the aluminum platter, it was some 3-3.5 mm over the top plate, ajusted with the suspention springs to the correct distance.

Yes my noob status has been declared haha. I hadn't actually heard of or looked into B&O until finding this table but I immediately had to have it. Do you think I would get any use of the 1700? I don't know if I'd be able to afford a cartridge for that one. I suppose I could switch the mmc20 back and forth but I am starting to get quite a collection of tables. That 5/7 pin to aux connector is exactly what I am talking about. PM sent!

Soren - That is awesome that you figured a way to fix the subplatter. I don't know if I could trust myself enough to do that, even if I had the lathe and the tools you used to measure the trueness of the subplatter. I've read most of the thread and will be going back over it because that's some interesting stuff there. One thing you said did stand out to me though. I'm not sure if my support tabs are adjusted correctly. Is the screw under the platter what adjusts these or do you physically have to bend the tab to adjust the height. I ask because there is barely any gap between the subplatter and the platform directly beneath it. It rubs in the back left spot and only for a split second per revolution. If I pull up with moderate pressure on the subplatter it will stay in place and not rub until the table is moved then it kind of seats back down to where it rubs a bit again. How do I remove the subplatter? The pictures in the service manual were hard to predict what comes off and what not. I'd like to take it out to inspect the spindle and just the setup in general.

I included some pictures to show where it rubs and the overall height of the platter when on the table

Also have you guys ever seen this on a dustcover before? looks like something spilled on it. I tried isopropyl alcohol, brasso, and plastic polish and it didn't even lighten the stains.

I am going to take the cover to an acrylic shop and see if it can be repaired. The right hinge is broke. I'm really not impressed with B&O's dustcover hinge device. It also made me look like an idiot

Thanks again for the help guys. I will get to the bottom of this machine

No Noob, but a very happy amateuer. Just like me, just like Rich

To get the flywheel of you will have to attack from below, on the end of the flywheel shaft there is a gear 1508, the gear is fitted to the shaft with a pin 1509, after pulling the pin you should be able to pull of the gear and take out the flywheel.

As the scraping is because of your bend flywheel it will not help to ajust the platter hight, the platter and platter chassis mooves together when adjusting the platter height, in your pic you can see 2 screw heads, the bigger one is for transport and the other one is for height adjust. Dont touch the now.

When you wheel is out go to a mecanics workshop, show him my desciption and ask him to straighten your wheel and check the shaft.

Man, what happened to that dust cover?

Some of the dust cover designs are brilliant (BG4002), some are not (BG3404), and some fall in between (BG RX2).

Here's a photo of one of the adapters I have.  5 pin DIN female to RCA male left and right plus ground terminated in a spade lug.

Man, I don't know what got spilt on that dust cover. I cannot get it off for the life of me though. I found a number for a  local acrylic shop and I'm hoping they can salvage this thing.

I do believe that is the plug I need though. Man I wish i could listen to this thing now . I have to be moved out of my apartment by the end of the week then I'm going across the country to visit family for the holidays. I am excited for all that but I am bummed that it is going to be 3 weeks before this thing sees the light of day again. So if you don't hear much from me in the next few weeks don't alert authorities, I will be back soon I promise

Just got back into town a couple days ago. Rich, thank you so much for the adapter, this thing sounds fantastic! I really can't get over how much more robust the bass end is compared to my other table. I'm really happy with it. I may junk the table though That beogram 1700 is still for sale for 50$. The seller says it's in great looking and operating condition, just no cartridge. 

Mine may just be too far gone to really even tinker around with. With the ruined dust cover and slightly warped sub platter a new deck for 50$ doesn't sound too bad. Although there is a beogram 8000 on craigslist for 20$ for parts. Would the sub platter from the 8000 work on my table? Or do you guys think it would be smarter to just go with the 1700 and call it a day? Either way I picked up a superp 20EN for 30$ so I'm not upset!

JoshKamp1988:

Just got back into town a couple days ago. Rich, thank you so much for the adapter, this thing sounds fantastic! I really can't get over how much more robust the bass end is compared to my other table. I'm really happy with it. I may junk the table though That beogram 1700 is still for sale for 50$. The seller says it's in great looking and operating condition, just no cartridge. 

Mine may just be too far gone to really even tinker around with. With the ruined dust cover and slightly warped sub platter a new deck for 50$ doesn't sound too bad. Although there is a beogram 8000 on craigslist for 20$ for parts. Would the sub platter from the 8000 work on my table? Or do you guys think it would be smarter to just go with the 1700 and call it a day? Either way I picked up a superp 20EN for 30$ so I'm not upset!

Glad you got it.

My advice to you would be to just forget about B&O, it will become an obsession (some of us call it the Beovirus) and a bottomless money pit.  Why not just sell me the MMC20EN for $50 and go away happy?

Please don't junk the table.  Somebody somewhere would at least use it for parts (perhaps me - I do have two working BG3404s).

The BG8000 comes from a different family than BG3404 so I doubt it'll help.  Go poke around the Beocentral web site to get an understanding of the "family" aspect of the equipment lines.

The 1700 would be a good deck for your MMC20EN, but I would actually recommend a 4002 - you should be able to find a good working one in the US on Ebay for about $125.

Hmm -quite interesting to see this 3404. Appearently it is similar to the BG 2402, with the MMC 20x line of pickup's...The 2404 had the MMC 1-5 pickup's. Was there ever a 3402 model?