Family sometimes is a pain in the but, they don't understand that the Beovirus carriers need to be left alone with Beo equipment. In the weekend I had to make grill food, go rowing competition and be freindly to visitors, but early saturday I did manage to open up the BG 6500 and here the first pics and findings

Back

Front

Number

After taking of the plastic wrap, the tape, that I thought was part of the packing, was used to keep the cover and support in place.

This is what I found

The upper part of the deck is broken where the lid support is attached, both sides

Lid support.

Broken pieces found inside

Inside

Flywheel.

The TT open, I found some pieces from the broken lid support inside, as I already suspected that something very bad has happened to this deck I went into "check everything very slowly" mode, inspecting the flywheel I found hair fisures on two spikes near the center, rotating it by hand I could hear a scraping sound when the wheel touched one of the 4 plastic pins that stops downward movement when you press the platter down by hand. Conclusion Flywheel is bend. I will take it to my workshop and in my lathe check how much and repair it if posible.

I cleaned up all old grease and applyed oil where needed (service manual helps)

Without cart attached I check if the TT is alive, the bands are there and when pressing play the motor, for the platter jumps a little, but do not rotate, the tangential motor starts moves the arms a little and stops. In the display at the end of the sensor arm it shows 33, when the tang. motor stops the display goes dark. I press 33 rpm and press turn, nothing, I pres 45 rpm and turn, the plattermotor starts turning, display shows 45, the motor stops, display goes dark when I press the white point button. I cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner and tried again, same result.

I see some work coming, close the TT and pack it away.

Today I will check the BM 6500

Gee, that's a banged up 6500. Guess I was lucky when I received my white 6500 - it was rather shoddily packed and the seller had tried to tighten the transport screws...  only that he had mixed them up with the platter height adjustments

The flywheel/subplatter getting warped seems to be a common problem when these poor decks are thrown about with the platter on. Would be great if you could come up with a method to straighten it!

Will be back with more on the TT Mika, but first I'm going to check all the rest to see what have to be done.

Beomaster 6500, Check and picks

After visual check I connected the BM to 220 V and got lights, pressed the mute on the front panel, works, pressed the step on front, works.

Put 4 big batteries into the MCP, wonder how often you will have to change these, All channels shows, radio steps works, display shows everything. Connect the RL 140 speakers, set the volume very low, the wheel is a little hard to begin with, but gets better with use (moved with mute on) Bass, treble, balance works, from the radio I get some few stations, check the goto function for radio, gets more stations, connect a rabbit ear from my BS 3000, gets even more stations, shortly test sound, loud, 50 on display, think it should sound louder and more clean, as I don't like to max I dont know of the amp or the speakers are bad but probably both. I want to refoam and recap the speakers before I decide what o do with the reciever/amp. I will now start checking the CD and after that the BC, I do still have some old tapes somewhere. Sugestions on repairs are heavily welcome.

Front OK, side panel need some glue, no deep scraches, will look good after gluing and cleaning

Back, connections looks OK, but dirty

Number

Inside, first thing, 3 screws missing for the PCB, someone was here before me.

Opened, I see heat signs on the upright PCB, and in the PVC cover just beside the 2 big caps, a hole, looks like melted, a cap. burned??

I lifted of the cover with the caps inside it, sort of have to twist it out, direct underneath there is a cap. but it looks OK, will check later if it is original or of it has been changed

On the upside of the PCB I found this one, looking strange, is it original, will check in diagrams.

Here the signs of heat, something is wrong here, need comments from the experts.

Those heat signs are probably just dirt carried in & captured by the air flow inside the amp - I bet they'll wipe off with a moist cloth. The swinging board is the tuner, and the metal case contains the front end. If it works, it's fine.

I don't think there'll be anything fundamentally wrong with the receiver as you already verified that it works in general. Lousy / intermittent sound with speakers 1 will be the mute relay (compare the sound quality to spkrs 2). You should check the idle current of the amp, especially if it seems to get abnormally warm or even shuts down at larger volumes. The adjustment trimmers may need replacing already.

The MCP batteries... I have the first set in and I've had it for almost three years. Granted, all daily use is with a Beo4.

Checking Bg 6500 CD

Opened the CD, more dust than in the other units, wonder why, optical check shows no visible flaws or repairs done before, old grease on mec. parts, connected the tray opens, but do not close, the band on the tray motor looks good but may be a little to lose, I take of the disktray (torx screws) cleans and add a little oil to moving mec. parts (using a pipe cleaner where needed). Now the tray opens and closes without problems. Pressing the front panel "open" I had to press 2-3 times at first, but after 5-6 cycles it works every time, the tray closes automaticly after some 3 seconds, very fast in my opinion, will check if time can be ajusted. Connect the CD to the BM after cleaning the jacks. I load a Cold Play mint CD and using the MCP I check the functions, jumping tracks needs 2-3 tries to begin with, but after a while its OK, checking the standby on the front panel, same as the open switch, has to work it a couple of times, before it starts working every time. The sound is better than with the best radio station. To further test the BM I leave it on for 1 houer playing at low volume (display 30), in between checking the cooling ribs at the back of the BM, they get a little more than hand warm, some 45-50 C i think, and stays at this temp the whole houer. 

Today I will check the Beocord

Pics CD and MCP

Cleaning and glue, left side the same

Back with number

Inside

The Master Control Panel, the wheel is a little hard and has some points where it kind of "hooks", around the buttons dirty, apparently all display leds are working.

The CD tray timeout is 3 minutes and cannot be adjusted. You should check the switch that operates when the tray is fully open (clean / adjust it after making sure the tray actually is able to move its full travel before getting blocked by dirt and / or hardened grease).

Starting problems are probably due to C2103 dying (on the servo board, do a forum search). You should replace it before using the CD.

Well I hope you are not to scared after reading Dillen's details on my BM6500 number 1?

My CD6500 works great allthough the tray is 3 seconds like yours after I moved. When I got it 1 month earlier it was okay.

Peter has answered here:

http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/p/29671/234849.aspx#234849

 Edit

I just opend my CD6500 and the switch had to be bent a little towards the rear of the player.

You will find it on the same side as pull/belt function in the middle.

My CD6500 is now working great again. 

Not scared, the BM is working OK, has been running now nearly 6 houers, and the CD is playing ok, and works first time on every command from MCP or front panel, and 3 second I can live with, I'm a fast disc jockey.

But today I checked the Beocord, and there are problems, after cleaning and lubricating, cleaning all the small contacts (all dirty) I put in a tape and pressed play, the tape moves a little the driving pins start rotating, but the head and drive wheel do not come forward, I took out the drive, took of the 2 big flywheels liftet of the print with sliding contakts cleaned and lubricated and checked that the mecanism moved freely, I do not see any mec. failure. The inside looks good with no signs of repairment. Puy in the drive again now  pressing fast forward the tape rotates some 3 rounds and then stops, the driving pins continues rotating also after pressing stop, the pins only stops when going on standby.

Tomorrow photos and more. Thank you for your answers, and now it seems like I really need some good advice. If posible I want the Beocord working before assambly its a pain in the neck taking the drive in, out and apart. Tomorrow is another sunny day with a lot of progres

Pics

Glue and clean

Back and number

Inside clean and not to much dust

My suggestion is to not waste your time on the Beocord until you have installed new belts. All three for the mechanism + possibly the drawer. If they haven't been replaced earlier, they simply will not work.

These really have the funny habit of leaving the motor + capstan pins running until standby once you start them.

Thankyou Mika, will do, then onto the RL 140, open them and check the drivers, after that I will contact Martin for parts and sugestions of what to do with all the units, I would like your comments on this also, waiting for the parts to come I will start with the BG flywheel, but after some days thinking about the BG I think there may be more damages, the force that broke the lid support must have been very big, the tangential mecanismus is directly under the cover support. Looking inside the TT I see the tang. drive motor with band to the tang. drive, there is no visible damage, but the drive wheel on the motor and the wheel on the tang. drive is not exactly in line, when I press down the suspention to nearly stop, they line up, but with the flywheel and the platter in position, the floating chassis does not go that far down, the disalignment is barely visible, and it may be bad construction, the owner told me that it got damaged in the container from DK to Mexico, but the damage looks more like caused by an upforce than something falling on it, on the cover there is no marks more than normal on the upper surfaces.

Well, I have time to invistigate more and find out how to repair it.

2 days ago I was playing music on my BG 2404 with the MMC 2, after 1.5 LP the suspention in the MMC 2 gave way, you could hear it, over 3 tracks on the LP the sound slowly got worse until the cantilever started skating. Checking I could see the cartridge housing touching the LP.

As my MMC 4 also gave up 2 month ago I must conclude that all MMCs still existing today are in bad condition, and buying one on Ebay for gold is a waste of money, and I, stupid A*****, bought a BG 5000 with MMC 4, just for the cartridge. The BG 5000 is still up in McAllen TX waiting for me to pick it up.

My clients are calling, so today I must do the only thing that I don't like about life, work to live.

Opened one of the RL 140, everything I learned on this forum came through. After screwing a lot, I got the speaker open, and found woofer surrounds in bad condition, the crossover looks OK but with electrolytic caps. I tried to take out the mid range, but it is like glued to the chassis, will try again today, it looks OK, but who knows.

Pics and comments

The inside, I don't think this speaker was opened since it left the factory in Struer in wonderful DK

The right side woofer, took it out, it looked very good, touched the surround very lightly with my finger and the foam just gave way.

Left side woofer came out like this with the damaged surround.

The tweeter, from Norway, an earlier Danish colony

The mid range speaker, Nokia, from the land of 1000 lakes, sorry Mika its not, the small print reads "made in Germany"

The crossover, looks like new, all the driver cables is connected with clips and comes of easy, the connection to the 2 pin Din is soldered, or maybe it comes out if I take of the middle piece screwed to the front panel, will give it a try today.

Got the midrange out, bend a 1.5 x 25 x 200 mm steel bar 90 degrees 15 mm from one end, and could, working around the driver, get it out without problems, cleaned the woofers, used 3M green pads (kittchen ware) with acetone, to get of the last glue and foam from the driver ring, works good, took of one dust cap to see the tight fit that, according to Martin has to be shimmed to get it right, he's right its tight, some 0.5 mm by look and feel. left the other dust cap on and tapped the off one with some paper, getting dirt in there will be a disaster.

Send a PM to Martin to see what will be needed for renovation af the system, will be waiting nervously for his respond (I think I got HIS right this time)

Got to the flywheel from the BG today, took of the center plastic piece and set up the wheel in my lathe, first checking the center shaft for damage, Measuring 0.005 mm. circumference difference, but that may be my lathe chuck, the outer ring on the wheel is another story, 9.0 mm up-down difference, band surface 0.5 mm circumference difference.

With the top side of the wheel resting against, and the center shaft in, the chuck, using a pointed cutting steel as guide I set my dial on the sledge to "0" on the highest point of the wheel, turned the wheel 180 degrees and marked the lowest point, back to the high point, with the sledge I carefully put pressure on the wheel, went back to "0" on the dial and checked the movement, I had to put on pressure some 5-6 times before the wheel started to respond to the pressure, when, with my dial on "o" ,I had a distance from the high point to the cutting steel,of some 2 mm,. I turned 180 degrees and checked the lowest point, and so on untill I was within 1 mm of difference, now I put on pressure on the highest point and checked after each time the whole circumference after 1.5 houer I had an up-down difference of only 0.2 mm. Acceptable, the circumference difference on the band surface is below 0.1 mm.

Inserted the wheel in the BG and there was now a sliding sound nearly all way around, sliding on the support taps on the swing chassis.

Center to high (or outer ring to low), back to the lathe, center shaft in a drill chuck, upside wheel center to drill chuck, and with outer ring against the lathe chuck, bend the center to a lower position, again 5-6 tries with pressure before I got a result, back to the BG, now the wheel is running free and very light.

Put on the aluminum platter, it was some 3-3.5 mm over the top plate, ajusted with the suspention springs to the correct distance.

But the BG does not work, pressing play the platter motor jumps a little, light comes on with "33" at the end of the sensor arm, and after some seconds it turns of again, pressing lift or turn, the worklight comes on,  pressing stop all stops. The radial drive motor is working after pressing start, moving the platter by hand and the radial in pos. to disk from there I can  move the radial with lift and turn.

Will need help on this one

Good job on the subplatter !

Sorry, but I simply have to ask if you tried the Beogram with a record on the platter ?
With no record, it will do exactly as you describe...

Martin

Hi Martin

Tried with 45 and 33, and without, same result, the mecanical side is ok, pressing start I move the platter by hand, and the tang. goes to 33 or 45 whatever is on the platter, also with the correct distances to center. but its like the platter motor do not get enough power it only jucks a little and then nothing.

About the parts, you will have a PM in 30 min. and its urgent my pal leaves for Denmark on thursday.

Got a good answer from Martin (as allways), but I'm kind of lost here:

BG 6500

Pressing play I check the current for the lamp inside the tangential drive, "0", I check on PCB with the muting switch "0". Wtih disk and no disk. Could it be the S3 contact ??

I check the platter motor: On PCB 1 at Jack P5, pressing start I get: P5-1: 11.9 V, P5-3: 8.5 V, P5-4: 9.1 V, P5-5, 0.0 V.

Attached to the platter motor there is a small print with maybe 10 small components on it, I'm kind of lost, how an it be that the motor with print, gets all these currents at the same time.

I've PMed with Martin will get 4 "new" woofers and caps for the crossovers for the RLs 140, and for the rest of the units what Martin recommends me, but I will have to invest in some antistatic equipment, will investigate what and to which prices, maybe I will use it only one time

I will leave the job now, mix me a strong Cuba and give it a thinker.

For the occasional ESD repair, I would receommend getting something like this antistatic field kit :

http://uk.farnell.com/vermason/j726r/esd-field-service-kit/dp/3550072

Martin

Just a follow up of this restuaration and repair.

BM 6500:

Throughout cleaning, changed caps. Result, better reception, better sound, faster reacting when using MCP.

BG CD 6500:

Cleaning, lubrication, changed bands, ajusted and cleaned contact for tray open, opened front panel and cleaned front display. Result, opens and closes correctly, reacts on all commands from MCP, plays very good.

BG 6500:

Troughout cleaning, lubricated, repaired battered cover mecanism and upper back cover, changed caps, also in the preamp, changed bad 10 Ohm trimmer, repaired broken track on PCB, repaired bend swingring (under platter), changed bands, addjusted set down points, addjusted speed 33 and 45.

Main problem was the servo motor I thought, but came down to the broken track on the PCB and the 10 Ohm trimmer, the bend swingring was difficault, but I got it nearly perfect. Result, plays perfectly with used MMC4, now waiting for SMMC4 from Soundsmith

MCP 6500:

Throughout cleaning, roller bearing and contact for addjust ring was out for cleaning and the rollerbearing was lubricated with SKF roller bearing grease, the display and all lamp sections was out for cleaning. Result work faster and from longer distance, before cleaning it worked from about 2-3 Meters and a lot of no contact, now it works from 6 Meters without any problems, maybe farther but did not test.

Beocord 6500:

Cleaning, lubricated, changed bands. No result.

With tape inserted, pressing play, the tape jumps a little, pressing forward or reverse, the tape moves some 3 revolutions and stops, the toneheads does not come forward. I've cleaned and lubricated everything, but no result. Using the MCP the result is the same. Capstans are working. Will try again when I have some time to recover from my first Enteuschung (English ??). Comments please.

Red Line 140s:

Cleaning, changed caps in the crossovers, changed 4 woofers (Martins with new surrunds), Result, very good sound, its the first time I hear 140s and its just impressing what they put out, I think maybe better than my BL 8000, for sure different sound. Love it.

Here some pics from the finished product. The cable on the floor is my 220 V feedline, we have 120 V in Mexico, so I had to connect to 2 phases to get my 220. The 6500 was bought in DK 1989. This setup is just for testing.

Saludos from Mexico, Soren

Good work! Looks lovely, just like mine

It's fortunate that the last non-functional item is the least valuable. If it proves too hard to fix, it won't be an impossible task to find another white Beocord 6500. Or just swap the case parts with another colour unit.

I suppose you've just put the MCP there for the photo, but don't store it, or anything else, on top of the Beogram. The lids have an annoying habit of starting to sag at the rear end if any weight at all is kept on them.

Yes the MCP on top is just for photo. and the cover has sagged, but I will glue a 5 x 5 Mm. alumium angle to the under side, it will not be visible when the lid is closed, and when open it will look like its original.

Where i have problems is with the side panel, the lower half has some white plastic strip attached with double sided tape, the tape is, from the factory, smaller than the strips, and they sort of quell out at the top and buttom, until now I didn't find material like it, but is still looking.

I will try to get the Beocord going, but just now I'm happy that the rest is working, I left it on for 6 hours yesterday and it works just as it should.

Søren Mexico:

Yes the MCP on top is just for photo. and the cover has sagged, but I will glue a 5 x 5 Mm. alumium angle to the under side, it will not be visible when the lid is closed, and when open it will look like its original.

Keep us posted on how that turns out - I've been thinking about doing something similar with a metal strip. Another improvement would be to somehow seal off the annoying dust gap left by the lid...

tournedos:

Søren Mexico:

Yes the MCP on top is just for photo. and the cover has sagged, but I will glue a 5 x 5 Mm. alumium angle to the under side, it will not be visible when the lid is closed, and when open it will look like its original.

Keep us posted on how that turns out - I've been thinking about doing something similar with a metal strip. Another improvement would be to somehow seal off the annoying dust gap left by the lid...

Will give it a thinker, and post, yes the gap is a bit annoying

Well done you hava a lovely system there. I am quite envious!!!