Well.. had to happen sooner or later! relocating my 4500 and I note that the panel on the cord is moving... as I place onto the wallbracket the panel falls out into mty arms!!!!

 

So after a close shave! what am I best doing? do I need to remove all of the tape on both the glass and on the beocord itself? and then use resin to fix?

 

 

With your recent track record Mobe - get someone else to do it

Seriously, yes remove as much of the old tape as possible but take care with the glass panel as you don't want to scratch the paint, I'm led to believe it has some electrolytic coating or similar. 2 part epoxy resin is yer man for sticking it back together.

Chris.

Medogsfat:

With your recent track record Mobe - get someone else to do it

Seriously, yes remove as much of the old tape as possible but take care with the glass panel as you don't want to scratch the paint, I'm led to believe it has some electrolytic coating or similar. 2 part epoxy resin is yer man for sticking it back together.

Chris.

Nice on Chris! any ideas whats best to remove the tape? I was thinking of soaking it in warm soapy water? the tape is moist and comes off with some slight rubbing?

And ahem... I have not broke anything for ages! heart was in my mouth though when this came off!!!
 

What could possibly go wrong?

Andy T.

When the same thing happened to by Beoccenter 9000 I just rubbed the old tape off with my finger. Just to make sure I did not damage the panel. Stuck it back on with double sided carpet tape.

 

 

Craig

Mobeyone did you already reattach the glass?  I'm only asking because I have some tips to help, but I wouldn't bother typing them out if you've already finished.

 Austin
 

Hi Austin,

Not tackled the glass yet! so please post as I will probably not be the last to fall victim to this! Much appreciated!

mobe 

@ Craig, I had a closer look the other day and tape is just a residue of stickiness now... I see very this being a very tedious exercise... 

mobeyone:

@ Craig, I had a closer look the other day and tape is just a residue of stickiness now... I see very this being a very tedious exercise... 

My advice mobe - start growing yer finger nails mate

Chris.

Medogsfat:

My advice mobe - start growing yer finger nails mate

Chris.

 

Ill be getting manicures and facials next! 

Mobe, the sticky stuff will probably come off easily with isopropanol.

DON'T PUT THE BOTTLE ON THE FLOOR THEN KICK IT OVER!
DON'T USE IT NEAR A NAKED FLAME!
DON'T LET LITTLE MOBETTE DRINK THE BOTTLE!
DON'T DO IT IN MID-AIR OVER A CONCRETE FLOOR.

I think I've covered all bases there.

Andy T.

My advise to Mobe (given his track record) is - get someone else to do it for you!

Hey Mobe.

So, I'm going to tell you how to do this by removing the control panel.  It may take a little longer, but it's the proper way to do this, and will ensure a good button contact with the glass.  Last thing you want is to glue your glass on, and find that one of the buttons either doesn't work or you have to put pressure on the glass.  If you remove the control panel and reinstall it they way I say, you should find that the lightest of touch on the glass will operate it.

 Look on the bottom of the beomaster.  You'll see a small hole near the front edge.  I think there's some kind of arrow pointing to it.  Take something made of metal, and long and thin enough to fit in the hole.  A small allen (hex) wrench works well.  Slide the metal tip carefully into the hole, making sure you keep it straight.  About 2 or 3cm in you should feel like the tip is pressing on a spring tab.  This is the tab holding the control panel in.  While pressing that tab in with the metal tip, push the plastic control panel frame to one side (I can't remember which side, but it might say on the bottom of the beomaster, or you can check the service manual on the site).  Once the control panel slides to the side, you can take out the metal tip.  You will now be able to carefully and slowly lift the control panel away from the beomaster, but watch for the cable (or maybe 2 cables, I can't remember) connected to the circuit board as you lift out the panel.  Once you can see the cable, note or write done the orientation of the plug in the socket on the control panel circuit board, and then unplug it.  I had one beomaster with a plug that could only be inserted in one orientation, and another beomaster with a different plug allowing it to be plugged in the wrong way too, so I don't know which yours will have.  Once unplugged, you can remove the control panel from the beomaster.  Look at the plastic
frame pieces, and you'll see they're slid into grooves in the circuit board.

In my case the hardest adhesive to remove was on the plastic frame pieces.  For the glass I think I just rubbed with my fingers along with some warm soapy water.  Don't use anything abrasive - you don't want to remove the coating on the glass.  For the plastic frame: separate the plastic frame pieces from the circuit board.  Then fill a bowl with warm water and some dish washing soap.  Put the plastic frame pieces in the water and let them soak for at least a couple hours.  Then use your fingers and finger nails to rub as much of the adhesive off as you can.  You'll end up exposing fresh stickiness in the adhesive, so then soak them again and repeat.  The last of the adhesive you can remove by scraping with a razor blade.  Yes, getting all the adhesive off is a pain.  I was so annoyed with it I spread the job out over 3 days, doing a little each day and then taking a break when I'd get annoyed enough.

Now, if you look at the plastic frame pieces you'll notice you can't just randomly place the plastic ends on, then the two center pieces.  You have to look at the circuit board to see how the plastic tabs line up with the circuit board slots.  By looking at the positions of the slots you should be able to see where the plastic frame pieces need to be placed on the back of the glass.  Once you figure out the orientation of the plastic pieces, you need to decide how to reattach them.  Two part epoxy will work, as one member mentioned, but I don't know whether I would go that way.  First, if you make any sort of mistake, such as in the placement or positioning of the plastic frame pieces you're done for.  The epoxy is permanent.  Also, I've seen epoxy that was holding glass or plastic together become brittle after several years (+5).  I chose to use silicone adhesive, as was recommended to me by another member.  The silicone adhesive bonds well to both plastic and glass, and allows wiggling before it sets.  Also, it holds well, but at the same time won't dissolve away part of the plastic as some very strong glues will.  You mentioned you were mounting yours on the wall though.  I don't know ultimately how strong the silicone will be compared to the epoxy or carpet tape.  I know after one year mine is still stuck on snuggly though.  I'd still recommend hanging it on a section of wall over some type of carpet though, so the glass won't break if it ever does fall off again years later.

Anyway, for whatever glue you use, look at the bottom of the glass while you have the plastic frame pieces sitting in place.  Notice which areas offer you the most space between the edge of the plastic and the next closest button/contact area or LED area.  These are the regions of plastic where you can put more glue on since you don't have to worry about glue being pressed out from underneath and onto a contact or LED area.  Before you glue the plastic pieces on though, hold the glass up to sunlight and look for any spots in the black where light shows through.  If you see any, just dab a permanent black marker on the spot.

Make absolutely sure the glue is completely dry before trying to reattach the glass to the circuit board, as the rubber pegs put pressure on the glass and will dislodge it if it isn't totally set.  I'd wait at least a day and a half.  Once you've glued the plastic pieces back onto the back of the glass, it'll help to have a friend (or enemy if no friends are available) to reconnect the glass and frame to the circuit board.  See all the black rubbery pegs?  Those need to be pressed against the opaque squares on the back of the glass.  Lay the glass down on a table (with a tablecloth of course so you don't scratch it) face down, with the plastic tabs facing up.  Position the circuit board on top.  Then with the 4 hands of you and your friend, carefully (although it will take some pressure) try to press the circuit board down while sliding it to the side so the plastic tabs lock into the slots on the board.  You need 4 hands to apply even pressure across the board while trying to get the slots in, as you don't want to crack the circuit board.

Once you get the board attached, look under the glass to make sure the black rubber pegs are pressed against the contact patches (opaque squares).  If one is on the edge or just off of the square you may be able to carefully reach in with a small object like a pen and push it over onto the contact patch.  Now you're ready to put the panel back into the beomaster.  Reconnect the cable, then set the panel down into the opening.  Remembering it will go in off to one side, and then you slide it back over to lock it again.  You should hear a soft click as the tab locks it in, preventing you from sliding it back to the side.  Now you can plug it back in and hope for the best.  If all went well, the glass should be responsive to the lightest of touch.

I typed this all from memory, so I'd still recommend glancing at the service manual.
Good luck.

Holy cow, do I win something for this?  Maybe it can form the beginning of some diy restoration section of the site?

Holy cow indeed!
You deserve a medal for that post. People like you, is what makes Beoworld so special.
Even though I don't have a 4500, I feel like I've been in one already!

Andy T.

That's very similar how i do it. I had to do mine on a beocord 4500 and my mother's Master 4500. I have also found that a panel from a 3500 will fit on a 4500.

Thank you Camshaft! Maybe this could be filed somewhere??

Moving the BM around and also notice that the panel was moving.. so I may do them all in one go now!

Whatout for the next post.. in the wanted section..

 

Well well!

Its been a while... I loathe ISP's with a passion now.. incompetent idiots...

Anyway! I had a go.. first time was a mare.. had to start again but all are now glues back in place! result! but the master has suffered from some hairline marks which I only noticed once I put the power back on

Should add that the there is also a strip which I think is simply tape! that runs across the middle which I accidently peeled off when cleaning... 

Be warned all 4500 owners! its a very fiddly and time consuming job! 

 

Welcome back Mobe You have been sorely missed.

Andy T.

Cheers Andy, good to be back!

Have many posts to catch up!! wonder what I have been missing!

Heyup Mobe, I've been having DIY disaster withdrawals mate.

 

Good to have you back

 

Chris.

Nice to see you back Mobe, I thought you had been kidnapped by aliens or something.

 

 

Craig

Ok guys, I know Mobe is supposedly known for some diy attemps that didn't go so well, but I haven't actually seen any.  Would anyone mind giving me a link or two to these endeavors?  Unless of course you'd rather I don't know Mobe
 

The truth is that a couple of months or so ago Mobe installed Sat-Nav in that Merc of his and............well you can guess the rest!!

Sorry about that Mobe......nice to see you back.

Thanks again guys! great to be back online! Having no internet meant (well according to 'er!) finishing off stuff round the house.. amazing how much trouble a drill can get you into!! and camshaft.. you dont want to know!

I would wire satnav in and fry the car at the sametime!!

BUT! I have done well me thinks.. will post some photos soon! just dont look too close!!! 

Well, thanks for this, it works a treat! A couple of things I found:

1. You need to be careful about choosing your instrument to put in the hole with the arrow (and yes, it has an arrow). A screwdriver doesn't work, but a small allen key does. I also found there are instructions printed on the base of the unit telling you how to take it apart.

2. When pushing the panel to the left (yes, the left), my panel was a bit sticky. I had to persevere and push a bit harder. I nearly gave up at that point, but determination (or perhaps just stingyness) came to the fore.

3. There are actually four cables attaching the panel to the main circuit board, but only two of them (the ones on the top edge) need to be detached. The others can be left attached.

4. Cleaning the old tape off the plastic frames is easy with a lemon based sticky-remover. I used De-solvit, and while it is still a bit of an effort, I did it in an hour, rather than 3 days. I wasn't game to use this on the glass panel, but who knows, it might work fine there, too, and save another hour of rubbing.

5. I used carpet tape to reattach the glass panel. It's early days to tell if this will last, but so far, so good.

My heartfelt thanks to the B&O community for the instant and effective help.