Hi guys...

 I'm having the welder make the wall mount for the CX100 center speakers over the TV... Quick question..

If he makes a mount with hooks (posts) similar to the origional...can we turn them 90 degrees on their SIDE????

 ie...... weld a mount..with 1 above the other (LATERAL)...and the hooks going in from the side???

Thanks a TON !!!!

Hey Frank.  That sounds like it would work, but at the same time if I were trying to mount them sideways on a custom mount I think I'd just use a plate with two holes in it.  Then for 2 of the 4 black screws already in the back of the speaker holding on the rear baffle, I'd replace them with 2 slightly longer ones and just have them go through the two holes in the plate.

 Austin
 

Great idea..Austin..!!!.Thanks...I don't have the speakers in front of me...but for added security..I could do all 4 screws per speaker no???

The housings are all aluminum...so that should be strong....yes??

thanks again for your input Austin..!!

No problem Frank.  And yes, you could do all 4.  I just said 2 because I though it'd be easier.  If you take only 2 screws out you still have the other 2 holding the back of the baffle against the speaker.  Also, it's easier to drill 2 holes spaced correctly apart than drilling 4 spaced correctly.  Even just 2 screws will be more secure than the original hook style mounting though.  Those black screws screw into an aluminum frame inside the speaker.  If you end up doing all 4 just make sure you tighten them enough that the rear plastic baffle gets pressed well against the back, as that seal between the speaker and the rear baffle is supposed to be air tight.  But don't wrench them down so hard you crack the plastic either of course.
 

Geat Austin.......quick follow up....the back of the speaker is aluminum....yes???

If done with care and extra long screws....we could do all 4 for permanancy.....yes??

thanks again....

The backs of mine are plastic.

Thanks Peter...

Ok..i'm going to have them weld a small shelf for under the bottom speaker , then a back support that will have holes which line up with the normal mounting holes..

Then put in "expansion" type screws that you use in dry wall to grab the inside of the origional mounting holes and secure to the upright post that comes off the bottom plate..

 

The backs are quite tough - the standard wall 'bracket' attaches to it.

Hmm, I'm having trouble visualizing the setup you just described Frank.  And as Peter said the backs are plastic. The four black screws on the back just sandwich the plastic backing on.  If you use two of them for mounting, then none of the load bearing is on the plastic.  Although as Peter said the plastic is pretty tough anyway.  I'd just be a little worried that if the speakers are quite old the plastic could be brittle.

Hi Austin...well, i'm thinking of plate steel a few mm's thick.......like a shelf...cut to the same shape and dimensions as the side of the CX 100.....

Then go to the back of the shelf...and weld an upright there...that would act extend up to the back of both speakers when on their side and stacked...

The upright would have holes drilled to match the stock mounting holes of the CX100's...

THen run a bolt through the upright and put a "butterfly" opening nut on that and "pop" that into the back of the stock mounting holes...then you can tighten up the speakers to the upright...and kinda lock it all togther...

 

 

Frank, I tossed together a quick 3d rendering of what I think might work for you.  I've made the front plate (the part that goes against the speaker) with 4 holes so it can go through all 4 screws in the back.  With a bracket like this though you won't have access to slide bolts in from the back, so you would need to use some threaded rods.  You could thread the rods into the back of the speakers, then put the bracket on the back of the speaker, and use nuts on the backs of the threaded rods then.  The bracket would just be hung on two bolts on the wall with the two key-holes on the rear plate.  After thinking about it more though, it might still be easier just to use the plain old single hook in the middle method, although not as secure.

 

 

Thanks Austin !!  Do you do this for a living??? Very cool....3D work >>>

 

THanks again..

No problem, and no, not for a living, just as a small hobby.  I was just thinking about it more though.  If you skip the bottom 2 holes, and just use the top 2, and make the rear plate low enough, then you'd still have access to slide bolts in from the back.  This is probably already more fabrication work than you had wanted to do anyway though.  I guess I'm just thinking out loud.