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Hi all!

This is my first post on the forums, but I've been lurking for a while. So hi.

I have very recently acquired a pair of MS150.2's in an appalling condition, which I paid waaaaaay too much for. But hopefully they will be worth it in the long run.

I started my beoaddicition when I was a kid, and my dad played his music on a beocenter7000 and some s80's. But alas they gave in to foamrot, and were replaced with "home theatre" sony rubbish when this became cool. My interest was rekindled recently when I inherited a beocenter2002 (ahem) with some s30's from my grandfather. Even though regarded as the worst B&O ever, it instantly sounded better than my then current bose 2.1 system (whose frequency curve has a w in its midrange??!?). And so the addiction began. Since then I have collected a pair of beautiful s80.2's in original condition, with no foamrot! (an achievement in itself), a BM6000 and a BC8004 (in need of new drive belts and some soldering), and recently this pair of ms150.2's.

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They are in a pretty bad way; both the 10" and 8" drivers are completely rotted through. I hooked them up to the 6000 at very low volume to assess the damage. It appeared one of the 10" subs did not function at all, and one of the 7.5" domes didn't make any sound. So I delicately (as is possible with these things) prised them apart. The reason the 10" didn't work is that the cable had come away from the terminal - easily solved! - not really. when reconnected this speaker scraped like hell. So there's obviously some extra damage going on there to the voice coil too. :(  I can't see why the dome wouldn't be working, unless its become stuck, or there's crossover damage?

I am a bit dubious of doing a DIY refoam, considering the potential damage I could do, and the apparent lack of original replacements available. I don't want to get newer units either as I want the original sound. So is there any advice or help you guys could give me?

Thanks

Sam

Recone these, or look for original drivers from another speaker.

Jon

Refoaming isn't difficult.  Don't be afraid to try.  I just did some S40s.  There are other threads on this forum.  Use the search.  People have had great success adopting and rescuing some sad Beovoxes!

There are driver repairers out there.  I've never used this guy for that, but Mark's a great guy and I've bought parts from him since 1987.

Check the first thread in the For Sale forum - Martin (handle = Dillen) has drivers for sale.  Did you check that thread?

Rich:

Check the first thread in the For Sale forum - Martin (handle = Dillen) has drivers for sale.  Did you check that thread?

A minimum level of silver membership is required to access the sales forum. Martin doesn't actually have any drivers for these listed in there so it would be unfair to suggest an upgrade of membership for the OP on this basis. On the other hand access to the huge database of manuals on site is well worth the £15 annual subscription for silver membership, and £30 gold membership gets entry to the monthly PRIZE DRAWS on top of this.

Chris.

Medogsfat:

Rich:

Check the first thread in the For Sale forum - Martin (handle = Dillen) has drivers for sale.  Did you check that thread?

A minimum level of silver membership is required to access the sales forum. Martin doesn't actually have any drivers for these listed in there so it would be unfair to suggest an upgrade of membership for the OP on this basis. On the other hand access to the huge database of manuals on site is well worth the £15 annual subscription for silver membership, and £30 gold membership gets entry to the monthly PRIZE DRAWS on top of this.

 

Chris.

Crap, I knew that.  Sorry.

If you're like me, though, you came for the manuals but stayed for the people!

Thanks for the info guys, and the "hard sell" as it were!!

Just a tad curious about the replacement of dustcaps: - I've seen a number of methods out there, with and without the removal of dustcaps, and as mine are badly dented, I may as well go the whole hog and do them too. What type of glue do I use for this, is it the same as the stuff for the foam surround?

thinking of going with goodhifi's foams etc, and his... "special" glue

When I refoamed the 8" woofers of my S40s, the new dust caps were attached with the same adhesive as the foam surrounds.  BTW, the removal and replacement of the dust caps is probably the easiest part of the whole process.

I enjoyed this thread - you may find it useful.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=191250

fleccky:

thinking of going with goodhifi's foams etc, and his... "special" glue 

"Special glue" - ahem..... It's just a little bottle of PVA type adhesive & rubbish. Use proper speaker cement.

Chris.

Thanks Chirs,

crisis averted there! What brand of speaker cement would you reccomend to me then?

the dynaudio 8" are kind of plasticy coated, is there special stuff for that or does it all do the same job?

@Soundproof - that did make me smile, epecially as he thought he'd found a load of junk. Shame about the reputation of B&O being style over substance, when it quite clearly isn't!

And a very nice find indeed, what I'd give for a BM8000!! (And a 'gram 8002) :s

I've ordered the rings, but can anyone recomend me a glue to use?

Seems the internet doesn't like to tell what "real" speaker glue actually is, or where it can be found...

The PVA type adhesive is absolutely fine to use for refoaming - it's not actually far removed from what many loudspeaker manufacturers use! The joint between the cone/surround and the surround/chassis are not generally highly stressed, and both have a decent area of contact, so an uber-adhesive that will withstand an earthquake is not necessary. The joints for the cone/coil, suspension/coil and suspension/chassis are a different matter, however, and the likes of Loctite 4105 or 382 (both of which you can buy from Maplin) are often used here.

The other advantage with the PVA type glue is that it does not 'grab' instantly and so you have the ability to line everything up perfectly; doubly useful if you are not intending to shim the voice coil to keep it still whilst you operate. The corresponding disadvantage is, of course, that everything has to be held very firmly whilst it dries.

Best of luck with your MS150s. I was given a pair and ended up refoaming them and then donating them to a certain Mr. T Jarman! He loves them to bits and I'm very glad, but I'm still regretting my decision. I have since acquired a pair of M150s but they're just not the same, especially as I now also have a Beomaster 8000. Oh well........

Thanks Adam. Did you refoam yourself? How about a tutorial in HFW then?

Jacques

Speaker cement looks a lot like woodworkers glue, that's correct, but speaker cement does not dry
up completely hard. It will remain a bit flexible, even after years.
Using a glue that hardens will introduce a stress zone in the surround material and the surround will
often develop cracks right at the glue edge.

Besides, woodworkers glue will not stick well to the metal basket.

And you will need shim'ing. Those woofers are too precious to skip that step.
I still haven't understood why people prefer to skip this important step. It keeps me busy, which is
fine with me, but I still would have preferred doing the actual refoam jobs rather than repairs to
what's left of a failed DIY attempt. It's cheaper too.

Martin

Dillen:

And you will need shim'ing. Those woofers are too precious to skip that step.
I still haven't understood why people prefer to skip this important step.

Martin

The following is to be heard in your head as if Yoda were speaking:

Yyyyeeeesssss.....to Martin you listen!!!!!

Well I don't know what you use in Denmark Martin, but the vinyl glue we use here keeps a certain degree of flexibility too, even after years. You can actually see that on old pots where some glue leaked onto the jar... It peels off easily and it is indeed supple. I also use it to peel off debris on dirty Lp's!

Martin, it doesn't mean I wont send you my woofers! I just don't have the money right now (50€ to send them to you... argh!). But I am definitely ordering the caps, because I am deeply disappointed in these MC120's (see here).

Jacques

@Rich (your name?)

Rich:

The following is to be heard in your head as if Yoda were speaking:

Yyyyeeeesssss.....to Martin you listen!!!!!

Martin is a nice, knowledgeable man, so call him Yoda if you will... but please no sarcasm.

Don't get me wrong.
I am not looking for work, I have lots of it everyday. 

It just hurts my poor old heart when I see what sometimes arrives here, knowing what it
could have been.
And I'm sure that many DIY'ers are succesful with what they do, I obviously
only hear from the not quite so succesful ones.

The flexible part sounds good but I really wouldn't recommend using a
glue that peels off easily (unless only on glass).
The woofer will work hard and the cones movements are quite strong.
Speaker cement is very tough and will hold on to almost anything, also glass,
and I use it for glass panel repairs too.
I don't have a brand name but I'm sure you can find some, maybe from a
pro speaker repairer or from production.
I've seen other good types of glue too, some contact glues will work fine
if not used the "contact"-way but only used on one surface, like the
black 3M stuff that doesn't pull into thin strings, but it's a royal mess to
clean up if it goes wrong or gets in the wrong places.

Wow, 50 euros for shipping to me, that's about as expensive as shipping from Denmark
and why I prefer to ship out from Germany whenever possible.

I've been called many things in my life. Yoda is a first but not one of the worst and
I take it as a compliment.

Martin

Dillen:

I've been called many things in my life. Yoda is a first but not one of the worst and
I take it as a compliment.

Martin

Actually, the intent was for me to be Yoda (I am not worthy), and the quote I was stealing would really have equated you with Obi-Wan!

So, I'm sorry. It wasn't sarcasm but admiration... We all look up to Men of the Art, don't we?

Anyway, refoaming is a very scary business to me. I know some have had success.

I used to repair loudspeaker units when I was an impoverished student. I took them from the tip or the local repair guy and built cabinets and crossovers!

So I know how to do it basically, but I'm afraid of ruining these, which I actually paid for! And they still have their surrounds in one piece!

And I'm new to B&O speakers (MC120.2, they sound appalling, although in near-mint condition!)

Jacques

Dillen:

I still haven't understood why people prefer to skip this important step. It keeps me busy, which is
fine with me, but I still would have preferred doing the actual refoam jobs rather than repairs to
what's left of a failed DIY attempt. It's cheaper too.

Martin

I would love to have shimmed the coils on my 120's however I could not source any suitably sized dust caps so very carefully used the method that seems popular. i.e. the feel and cross your fingers approach. I still want to replace the caps at some point as there are dent marks that I cannot get rid of but as these have no bearing on the sound it is not a priority.

I can't see any reason why folks the like of goodhifi cannot provide dustcaps.

BTW the glue I do not think is straight PVA as while it has a PVA consistanncy it smells like nail varnish!!! Maybe a mixture of the two?

Thanks Guys!

Feel I know what to look for now.

Martin - I will be using the proper method, with the dustcaps off, and shims! ;p

Step 1 -

Step1:

I can't see any reason why folks the like of goodhifi cannot provide dustcaps.

See here on his website: http://www.speakerrepairshop.com/index.php?item=dust-caps&action=page&group_id=12&lang=EN

Dustcaps galore!

Thanks, I am sure there weren't any a couple of years ago when I bought the kit but I may have missed them!