A couple of questions please, if someone can help me?

I've just bought a Beogram 3000 type 5228. The cartridge needs a new stylus (Axel can do this re-tip for not much money) usual linkages need cleaning but the motor runs and the belt seems to have some life in it yet.

My questions are as follows - The platter is original, but I'm sure the 3000 decks I've seen had a lead ring around the perifery of the underside of the top platter disc to add mass. This one doesn't and never had, although the rubbery rings are there to support the record.

The second question concerns the trim on the "lift" button. Does this trim disc still exist as a spare part, or does someone here have a spare they could sell me? The switch works fine, it's just the stick-on trim with "Lift" silk-screened on that I need.

Hope someone can help me with the second enquiry and either confirm or deny my failing memory of the platter mass-loading...

Thanks, Dave

Hi Dave,

You have one of the most classic radial decks from B&O.

The mass ring is not found on the Beogram 3000.
It was introduced on later versions of the Beogram 2200/2400/6000 series of decks to improve rumble damping etc.
which is probably where you've seen it.
I've never seen it on a Beogram 3000 - and I've seen many - but if someone knows otherwise I'm sure, I will be
corrected.

Unfortunately, it's quite common to see the aluminum plate with the word "LIFT" missing. The glue
lets go and the plate gets lost.
The same plate is found on the 1970's Beogram 1202/2000 and the Beocenter 3500.
I have a small amount of good used parts in stock but I'm not sure if I have any of these, I will check next
time I get down the dungeons.

Martin

Thanks very much indeed for the info and offer to look for the trim plate.

Memories become jumbled over the decades, but I had such fond memories of the 'Gram 3000 I couldn't resist it. Perhaps the sub-chassis has extra weighting, I don't know, but I'm sure the difference in performance between the 1202 and 3000 is more than "just" the stylus and platter, together with the fancier lid, isn't it [scratches head in confusion]?

Even more confusing Dave, is the fact that B&O, in their wisdom, decided to use the name BeoGram 3000 on no less than four different turntables!

Andy T.

Same deck really - just shows that the 3000 platter is quite a bit better. With an SP12, very difficult to beat. About the only difference apart from the ones you mention is that the 3000 has a slot for a RIAA to be pushed in if desired.

Whilst I'm waiting on a couple of SP12 possibilities, I've been given an apparently unused SP14 stylus. The motor seems free to spin, the idler engages and belt still grips and once unlocked, the suspension is level and bounces beautifully. I looked underneath and couldn't believe the huge suspended casting - no wonder the thing's so heavy. The counterweight has scuffed on the underside of the lid and I'll have to see if i can clean the worst of the markings off. Interesting that the hole in the counterweight is slightly off centre to equalise the loading on the arm bearings.

What's happening is that the motor won't switch off and the auto mechanism won't engage when asked. I understand that this is the relay operated switch sticking that's causing this. Any recommendations for the best way to clean the switch contacts?

I'm very much looking forward to getting this venerable old deck going properly. I hope it sounds as good as I remember - it's twenty years since I last listened to one and although no Linn LP12, the sound was always entertaining and clear.

Hello everyone,

First I would like to say I'm sorry for bringing back an aged out post.

Second, I also have a Beogram 3000 Type 5228. It belonged to my father. I have already purchased a new belt for it, as the old one had aged and become to stretched out. The only remaining problem is the cartridge. The record player has a little to much white noise when it plays and is uncapable of playing in Stereo anymore. The stereo system I'm playing it through has to be switched to Mono mode for both speakers to produce sound. I have done some research and found that no one officially sells the SP-12A stylus/cartridge anymore. This record player is supposedly compatiable with the SP-10A and SP-14A styli also.

My first question is what, if any, is the difference between these 3 styli?

and second, does anyone know of the best way to get a working SP-12A stylus? (or possibly a compatiable stylus)