I'm in the USA and found a 220 VOLT version of the Beomaster 1000 2301-3 (white keys).

The case is dirty and along the dial at the front edge of the window (with stations printed in Danish), it's missing its white plastic covering. But the tuning dial moves the needle across the dial. The knobs and buttons all seem to be present and functional.

How might I test this Beomaster 1000 to see if it'll drive some speakers and tune-in a radio station?

How might I handle the voltage issue? I don't recognize the speaker input type or auxilliary equipment jacks.

Thanks,

sm

Added some photos:

Beomaster 1000 On Flickr.

Most 1000s that I have seen have a voltage switch on the bottom - no doubt some of the myriad types produced do not though - if this is the case, you need a transformer. The speaker outlets are DIN plugs - the 2 pin variety. Less sure that you can get the radio working as I believe the US system differs somewhat from the European standard. Does it still have a type sticker on the base? Martin is our resident 1000 expert!

"2301-3", Peter

I'm afraid the Danish station names mean it will be one of the "domestic" versions and might not have switchable voltage (or the switch, perhaps the transformer could be rewired?). But the radio will not be a problem - the FM transmissions are just the same everywhere, only the channel spacing differs across the pond. This won't matter to an analog tuner like the BM1000, since you can dial it to any exact frequency you want.

Welcome to Beoworld !

As Peter says, there are several different versions of the BM1000 and far from
all has the rotary voltage setting switch at the rear. Some just have a plain
black metal disc with the voltage stamped on it, that goes particularly for
the earlier range (with white keys), like yours.
A simple voltage converter will work nicely with the Beomaster 1000.

Unless you live in an an area where the normal FM band range is heavily crowded,
allowing use of 50KHz channel spacing (ie. frequencies like 93.55 MHz or 102.05 MHz,
Italy springs to mind as, I think, the only european country still using this
since 1985), you shouldn't experience any problems with any FM tuner and the
BM1000, as already said, is completely analog so will tune in to any frequency,
also off-channel ones.

The speaker sockets are, as also already mentioned, 2-pin DIN.
Actually the only convention standard speaker plug ever for home stereo use (!).
Matching plugs can be found at Ebay (or here).
The source inputs (phono and tape) are 5-pin DIN - also a standard plug but mainly
seen on european equipment. Converters from DIN to RCA and back are available at
Ebay and from most radio stores.

Rare to see a non-export version in the states, could have been an imigrant bringing it along.

Martin

Thanks all for the quick replies!

Any hints on where I might find a suitable 110v to 220v converter on the cheap?

Also, in lieu of 2-pin DIN connectors, can I just stick speaker cables into the holes (to test)?

What would be a recommended method to clean this unit, and what sort of issues might a unit this old have? Why would someone throw this out! It was in front of a record store, and the owner I believe collects old stereos. I wonder if he determined it wasn't worth the effort..

It's a very nicely designed object in its own right (Jacob Jensen), but it would be _great_ to get it working. Any ideas on what to do about the broken plastic at the front edge of the dial?

More photos here.

Many thanks,

Bill

specialmonkey:

Any hints on where I might find a suitable 110v to 220v converter on the cheap?

USA... Radio Shack or similar online... take a look here.

specialmonkey:

I wonder if he determined it wasn't worth the effort.

My guess is that he didn't have or didn't want to source the converter...

All in all, it does not look too bad and you may well be surprised once you get it juiced that it may be fine. I have had a black keyed one on the bench for a few months. I will be happy to evaluate the damaged/missing pieces and help in any way I can. First thing is first though, get it powered up, and we'll see what is next.

++++EDIT++++

Perhaps someone knows if the power supply can be modded to 110?

Actually it is not a Jensen design - Jensen's first commission was to update this to the black key model.

Thanks for the info. I got the 100W.

It says 50 Hz 30-140W on the back of the Beomaster 1000. Will the 100W converter be OK, or should I get the 200W?

Thanks,

Bill

100W should be plenty enough for testing. Just keep an eye on the temperature of the converter if you plan to use high volumes for an extended time.

Likewise, for testing purposes, you might just stick the speaker wires into the connector holes. But be very careful not to short them - as I recall, BM1000 has no special protection for that!

You will probably also need to rig up at least some kind of an excuse for an aerial before expecting to find anything on FM. A pair of loose wires stuck into the round holes of the red antenna connector should do.

Bill,

If you haven't already bought the converter, I am sure that a local repair shop might have a converter just to see if the BM does anything at all...

Regarding the trim piece... I studied mine. It is a more substantial piece than I originally thought -descending vertically into the BM. In my case the balance switch penetrates it to the left. I had thought I might be able to fab one for you from plastruct and color-match it, but that may not be as simple as I thought. Furthermore, the clear panel on top engages differently than my black keyed variant.

If you decide you are going to restore this, keep us posted. I am in the states and will be happy to help as best I can, even if it means sending it off to me for the cosmetics.

Thanks again everone for the help (already ordered the converter, pretty cheap and will be nice to have as I might want one of these). I will let you know what happens. So that red circle on the back is the FM aerial? I was worried, it sort of looks like auxilliary power - not exactly what you want two stick wires you're holding into 

Shorting via the speaker connector would involve two wires in contact with one hole (and the other ends connected to the speaker)? Or two wires in two holes but touching eachother on the other end? I'll try to avoid either.

Bill

Powered it up and... I heard some radio! Turned on power, both speaker set buttons, and FM, alternatively with AFC - which seems to limit reception? Did not see the green stereo light, did see the strength indicator meter needle move to the center with increased reception. Do I need a stere decoder? Says something in the back about - and there seems to be a metal post sticking out back there, and a decoder hole.

One thing I noticed, though both speakers in each channel seem to work one side of each seems to put our more sound (e.g. can go louder - and not very loud by Sansui 661/881 standards, but definitely nice - especially when I will have two speakers) than the other.I was testing with one B&W speaker - model DM? Might my 100w converter be the issue?

I also notice with both sets selected, I could stick one speaker wire into the small opening of set one's left speaker, and the other into the larger opening of set two's left speaker - and had the effect of the louder channel when just using the singe input (was the same with left and right).

specialmonkey:

Powered it up and... I heard some radio! Turned on power, both speaker set buttons, and FM, alternatively with AFC - which seems to limit reception? Did not see the green stereo light, did see the strength indicator meter needle move to the center with increased reception. Do I need a stere decoder? Says something in the back about - and there seems to be a metal post sticking out back there, and a decoder hole.

OK! Well that is a start! YAHOO! First, rig up an FM antenna! The AFC will help lock to a strong station signal, with it off you hear the BM tuning as you roll between stations, with it on, the BM should be quiet while tuning. The antenna will help immensely.

specialmonkey:

One thing I noticed, though both speakers in each channel seem to work one side of each seems to put our more sound (e.g. can go louder - and not very loud by Sansui 661/881 standards, but definitely nice - especially when I will have two speakers) than the other.I was testing with one B&W speaker - model DM? Might my 100w converter be the issue?

Can you hook a pair of speakers up? Try SPK1 then SPK2. Balance rotary switch? Fourth from the left! 100w converter -well, the 1000 should peak at around 120w, so you are prob OK for now (testing).

specialmonkey:

I also notice with both sets selected, I could stick one speaker wire into the small opening of set one's left speaker, and the other into the larger opening of set two's left speaker - and had the effect of the louder channel when just using the singe input (was the same with left and right).

Don't tinker ...bit more methodical (don't wanna' toast it after 40+ years and getting so close) As above... try SPK1 and then 2 using the selector switches on the front... BTW, "the small and large openings" are: pin=+ / blade=-

Keep us posted!

Had the pair of speakers hooked into set I and an antenna - still no green stereo light. The right speaker was ~ twice as loud as the left with the volume all the way up and the balance all the way to the right. It was pleasantly loud but not impressively loud. Moving the balance to the middle, it was overall softer, though sound came from the left too, but even at far left it appers sound was coming from both speakers, may have been the case at all the way right too - either way, the left side is softer. Appeared to be the same on set II - but one terminal there was more problematic w/o a DIN connector.

Thanks for any suggestions on how to resolve.