Hi,

I picked up a cosmetically perfect Beogram 8000 in an antiques market for £20, took it home to realize the magnets spin the metal disc too fast, and the time/pitch regulator buttons don't seem to work. I've sent it to B&O to get an estimate, if it costs over £100 i'm thinking it might not be worth it and just get the replacement parts in time. How much is too much to pay B&O to fix it? and how much do they go for if they're in perfect condition? and does anyone know a good place to find parts for the 8000s?

Thanks,

Wil. 

Hi and welcome to Beoworld

Possibly the tacho disc disintegrated. The originals were simply a printed cellulose disc. Our technical advisor Dillen (Martin) can supply you with a new pattern part for not a lot. His replacement discs are made of slotted stainless steel as per the later 8000's and should last a life time.

 

Chris.

 

Yes, I noticed that the printed perspex disk had disintegrated. How much do these metal tacho discs cost? and is it an easy job to replace?

Cheers Chris.

Hi Will,

          the discs aren't particularly difficult to replace but it does require more than average DIY skills in my opinion. The service manual would certainly help here which is available for download on the main site for Silver & Gold members. To be honest it is worth the £30 anual membership to upgrade to Gold as you would also be entered into the monthly draw for the valid period where you have a chance to win some fantastic prizes!

This subscription helps to fund the running costs of the site and does not pay for the monthly draw items.

The tacho discs are available from member & technical advisor Dillen (Martin) who has the only world wide source of these that I know of. I'm sure he will be along very shortly in any case to give you far more detailed advice than I ever could -- the man's a Beogram genius

 

Chris.

Thanks Chris,
A genius is a person who knows everything there is to know about a specific thing.
I'm no genius, I still have a lot to learn about everything.  

I agree that it could indeed be a tachodisc problem.
If the pattern is coming apart it will need replacing and would be the first thing to get right.
I'm afraid you can forget about any scanned, printed, homedrawn
or photocopied solution to the tachodisc, it won't live up to
the extreme tolerances needed for stable and constant platter rotation. It has all been tried.

As B&O themselves discovered, extreme precise fabrication and metal is the only way.
While in there fixing the tachodisc, I would recommend replacing
electrolytic capacitors. They are responsible for lots of strange
and otherwise unexplainable faults in these wonderful machines (kits are readily available).
Check also for bad solders, especially around the edge of the PCB
where the connectors are and in the power supply area.

The Beogram is worth the restoration, especially if it's in a fine optical condition. They don't make them like this anymore.

Where to buy a tachodisc ? Err..
Beoworld forum rules are that we are not allowed to advertize for our own Ebay listings... note that the cost includes p/p,
but you can buy directly from me as well.

Martin

Dillen:

Thanks Chris,
A genius is a person who knows everything there is to know about a specific thing.
I'm no genius, I still have a lot to learn about everything.  

When I know half as much as you do Martin then I'll stop considering you a genius

 

@Wil - please check your inbox, I've sent you a PM.

 

Chris.

Just to add my 2 cents worth on this.....

The 8000 series turtables are tricky to repair. I think it is one of the most unfriendly pieces of B&O take apart. Unless you are really good with your hands, send it in to one someone who knows VINTAGE B&O.

I took mine several years ago to an authorized B&O service center in Canada. It was given to a new B&O trained technician. He botched the repair; he couldn't reassemble the dust cover. They had to call in the former techinican who had moved to another division to come back and fix it.

Here's why along with some tips.

1) The back hinge and dust cover is a really big liability in the 8000 series. The plastic is very vulnerable to cracking and really really challenging to put back in place. There's no need to take the back hinge off to replace tacho disc

2) Must be VERY careful taking the bottom off. There's a rod that holds one side in place. DO NOT prop the back cover up with the rod attached, it will destroy the chasis.

3) DO NOT align the sensor by pushing on the sensor or PCB. There is a gold lever that allows you to do this and it must be accessed under the chassis. 

4) Be very careful aligining the tacho sensor. If the center spindle is not properly leveled, moving the sensor assembly back in place could damage the tacho disc.

If you decide to replace the electrolytics more things needs to be taken a part. So if you've got a minty deck...its worth finding a pro to look at it.

Don't get me wrong... its a gorgeous machine... just very tricky to fix but well worth the investment to get it going!

 

Derek

 

auric:

 

The 8000 series turtables are tricky to repair. I think it is one of the most unfriendly pieces of B&O take apart.

I would tend to agree that the 8000 is one of the trickiest Beograms. These are also quite expensive so I would never advise anyone to just open it up to see if they can fix one! However they do come apart reasonably easily if you follow the instructions!

Interesting topic though - most unfriendly piece of B&O to take apart!! I feel a poll coming on!  

Hi Peter:

Yes a poll would be interesting!

I never liked the dust cover hinge in the 8000. Visually, its a very elegant design with the tension spring and plunger however it does not hold up with time. I've seen a few 8000 turntables with cracked housings right where the tension spring is. Actually B&O must have known this to be a liability. The early 8000s had a self tapping insert that was twisted into the composite material. Those almost always cracked. Later designs had a flat brass platform that distributed the stress of the tension screw. If anyone's interested, I've developed a technique to fix the cracked tension screw housing.

The Beomaster 8000 is brilliant. Very nice how there is a built in ledge for the the control surface during repair.

The 9500 with the prop up bar is very cute too. Very few companies engineer service friendly features into their products.

Derek

 

 

I couldn't agree more !
Servicing any tangential Beogram is not something you just do.
I feel an urge to comment on the notes above:

  1) The back hinge and dust cover is a really big liability in the 8000 series. The plastic is very vulnerable to cracking and really really challenging to put back in place. There's no need to take the back hinge off to replace tacho disc

Exactly, and still many people do it.
The rear cover with the clips etc. has a lip that goes around and underneath the bottom plate when assembled correctly.
This can easily be achieved WITHOUT disassembling the hinge/dustcover, do it as shown in the service manual.

  2) Must be VERY careful taking the bottom off. There's a rod that holds one side in place. DO NOT prop the back cover up with the rod attached, it will destroy the chasis.

DON'T take the bottom off at all !
The top part is hinged at the right side and will swing up allowing easy access to everything inside = Service position, shown in the service manual.

  3) DO NOT align the sensor by pushing on the sensor or PCB. There is a gold lever that allows you to do this and it must be accessed under the chassis.

Exactly !
Easily accessed when in service position.
The new tachodisc requires no aligning of the sensor.
Just swing in the sensor and place it somewhere centered within the pattern and it'll be fine.

  4) Be very careful aligining the tacho sensor. If the center spindle is not properly leveled, moving the sensor assembly back in place could damage the tacho disc.

If the center spindle rides too low, the subplatter scraping on the metal chassis and/or wires or the spindle even binds to the bearing,
there's a good chance that the nylon insert at the bottom of the brass
main bearing is damaged (broken or badly worn).
It can eaasily happen if the Beogram is transported (shipped) with the heavy platter (and subplatter) installed and will be obvious in that
the platter base aluminum will ride lower than flush with the surrounding aluminum frame.
A superb repro nylon part is available for this situation.

Martin

2) Must be VERY careful taking the bottom off. There's a rod that holds one side in place. DO NOT prop the back cover up with the rod attached, it will destroy the chasis.

DON'T take the bottom off at all !
The top part is hinged at the right side and will swing up allowing easy access to everything inside = Service position, shown in the service manual.

Hi Martin:

Well let me clarify. (I know you know this already)

IF you do not take the bottom off always hold it open with your hand. For example if the deck is placed top down on the table NEVER have the lid swing open and standing in an upright position without your support. This puts too much strain on the composite chassis. and will snap the very thin and brittle teeth that hold the rod in place. (sadly I am speaking from experience).

It is best just to keep it open say at a 45 degree, do what you have to and then close it. Anything more... I'd take the bottom of..... its just too fragile at this age.

The other thing that I dislike about the 8000 is the how the audio connector is bolted to bottom of the chasis. It can be very difficult to loosen because of the awkward angle. If you are not careful you can break off the wires and that's more things to fix.

At this point ... I'd like to thank Martin for coming up with those replacement tacho discs. You've saved SO MANY 8000s from going into the trash. Those things are useless without the disc.

Derek 

 

 

 

You are absolutely right about the output DIN connector (and muting) board.
Check those wires before you close the Beogram after every service.

I never had to flip an 8000 upside down to do any service.
Leave the bottom plate on the table as you would normally do.
Open the deck into service position.
The manual says that the aluminum cover (over the tonearms in their parked position) can be used as a stand but it's
often lose, missing or badly mounted so I prefer to turn
the Beogram around 90deg so that its left side faces me and the top
part will then lean against the wall behind my desk at just beyond vertical.
A bit of masking tape will keep the dustcover closed.
The control panel can still be reached and the Beogram will even still play in this position.
Pop out the transformer and click off the control panel and you can take out the whole PCB assembly.
At least that's how I normally do it, I suppose others will have other methods.

Thanks for the kind words, greatly appreciated !  

Martin