So all those little hifi shops that lost their franchise's around the workd basically boils down to you complaining!!! [quote user="Jeff"] This is the kind of thing that really hacks me off, particularly with products that are as much a work of art as an audio component like B&O. Sloppy and careless, and shows no respect either for

Well that is the last thing I would have expected tbh! Fuse ok in your meter? try measuring the resistance, turn the shaft while monitoring... although you might struggle with gear reduction so maybe take the whole thing out.

ok the posistion detector is just fine then, as the long black stripe is responsible for the speed change. Which type number is your deck? There are a couple of transistors and capacitor etc.. that are responsible for sending the drop command to the relavent circuit in my diagram c20 tr7 and associated components. You need to check that transistor,

ok I will retract my last post edit lol! Does the motor pull any current?

These motors are quite sensitve, so you should get something with a couple of volts, but the motor should also be quite strong at the stated 6v from the manual. I think when you use the direct entry it may be 12v but I can not remember. Best not to push the motor especially if it is jammed as it could cause irriversable damage! Limit the current or

disconnect the wires and run the motor off an external supply?

Why would you assume the metal case around the motor is grounded? I don't think it is! Get your meter and directly connect it to the motor terminals. Use jump wires or solder some wires directly or whatever... How do you know the voltage is getting to the motor if you haven't tested at the terminals? Now if the motor isn't moving it is unlikely

So you have attached your meter leads directly to the motor terminals and measured more than a few volts when operating the volume keys? If so, your motor is obviously knackered or stuck. Could be that the belt has slipped off and squeezing between pulley and gearbox housing? remove belt and try again... If still no life then the motor can be pulled

I wasn't sure myself so ordered foam replacements. Haven't fitted them yet as with all my own gear I never seem to find the time to finish lol! I would think it would matter less with mid drivers tbh, and there is a thread somewhere where a user was able to directly compare and not notice any difference!

ok if the arm is slightly sticking down this is normally as a result of the L shaped bracket that transmits solonoid / damper movement to the actual arm. I don't recomend you remove the sensor arm assembly to access the pivot unless, 1. you can find no other way to free the pivot 2. and / or the sensor arm is not aligned as per the service manual