Arggg! I was so close to getting a nice parts BM6000 off Ebay for $75. The seller had told me the unit was semi-working and had burned out segments of the display. I figured it was a good candidate to get an extra set of parts for mine. Some buyer with a super high transaction count swooped in and took it away. Oh well, I will wait for the next one

Nice job and beautiful cabinet. I have done the woofers on my S55 and S120.2 speakers. I found them easy to center and refoam as well. I wish all woofers were like that. The CX-50 and CX-100 series weren't bad either but I did use a frequency generator to test the centering on those. I really depended on the generator for the RL-140 speakers. Those

I was figuring I was heading down the path of having to take it out. It will be a few days until I can get back to it though. In the meantime I aquired another Beogram CDX unit that was being sold for repair/parts. Surprisingly, this CDX has perfect lid hinges. The other CDX I have was working but something involving the lid detection and other mechanical

I retested applying DC voltage with an external supply and the high side through my ammeter. I am not getting any measurable current.

I tried an external DC supply. The belt was detached from the pulley. I also disconnected the P17 plug to the 06 Module. I started with the current and DC voltage at zero and slowly increased it to almost 7 volts. The motor didn't ever make a sound. I powered down, reversed the polarity and tried again but got the same result. It looks like my options

I can try that. What should I apply across the motor, 10 volts DC?

You are right, I measured the metal case to ground and it isn't connected to ground. When I put a voltmeter across the two motor terminals I don't get any reading when operating the volume control. I also tried putting my scope probe across the terminals. When I do that I get the old problem of the processor going into an unknown state ("P"

I disconnected the belt from the pulley to see if the motor would run and it still doesn't do anything.

Here is a picture of the volume motor. On the left picture you can see TP20 and TP21 marked just under the board connector. TP20 is the purple/white wire and TP21 is the solid purple wire. The picture on the right shows those TP wires connecting to the motor. It was easiest for me to attach the scope probes to the exposed connector terminals so I did

Yikes, you mean your posting back on page 3 where you mentioned taking the motor assembly completely apart and re-lubing? Isn't TP20 and TP21 the same point of the motor terminals you are referring to?