The motor (copper wheel) runs at the same speed all the time. The idler wheel (with the rubber edge) should move up and down the copper shaft when the speed is changed so that it runs on either the thicker or thinner part of the shaft. This changes the speed of the idler wheel and, in turn, the platter. Martin

The Beogram 1100 has an AC motor running directly from mains. This means that the motors speed basically depends on the mains frequency which is either 50 or 60Hz. The dealer can change the voltage setting for the deck but NOT the frequency setting. If you moved from a 50Hz area to a 60Hz area, your deck will run 20% too fast. This can confuse a non

OK, this is where it gets very difficult to diagnose. It sounds as if the sequence wheel - or something working with the wheel - has been dislocated or broken. The usual problem with this model is the tonearm not lifting after ended play but this fault usually results in a permanently lowered tonearm rather than permanently raised. The fact that the

Yes, a bit hard to explain, I suppose. When the arm moves back to its park position, if you place a finger in its path, can you feel if the arm is mechanically forced back or if it's merely a result of the antiskating function, where the arm swings back by nothing by its own weight ? Martin

Welcome to Beoworld ! Can you tell if the arm is forced back by the mechanics or merely "falls back by itself" ? Martin

Whatever you do, DON'T get tempted into adjusting laser current etc. You can easily measure the laser current but don't touch any adjustments. The majority of faults in these decks are exactly capacitors and the ones on the servo board in particular. C2103 needs to be a blue Philips. Forget low-ESR and other "hype" types. Martin

Wonderful photo ! Looks odd, I agree. Almost as if it was done on purpose (to adjust its value ?). I suppose its value could be measured and held up against the schematics. That type of tuner frontend is rare, it is only found in a few 1964 models so not easily swapped with a known good one, which would otherwise have helped a bit in diagnosing. The

Will the platter rotate by hand ? Will the motor ? The belt can sometimes wedge in under the edge of the subplatter. It looks fine but blocks the platter from rotating. Martin

If the same station(s) can be heard all over the dial, the tuning doesn't work (surprise). Valve sockets and pins should be checked and cleaned, I couldn't agree more, but check also the connections to the tuning capacitor. There are sliding contacts to the rotating parts of the capacitor and oxidation can sometimes prevent a good contact. Note

Sounds like it could be allowing both the added and subtracted frequencies in from the mixer or the local oscillator is way off. Alternatively a heavy spurious. Could be an adjustment issue, a too widely tuned LC circuit, maybe even a broken coil, ferrite core or similar but check first anode voltages from the frontend and through the IF stages to make