The relay is located underneath the little PCB which also supports the DIN plug, upper left corner. Maybe it should be cleaned. I had to do that on my Beogram CD 3300!

PSU: power supply, transformer et al.

Hi, I too got that on a supposedly "dead" 8000. Not so: the white connector in the PSU block had somehow found its way inside the block! I just pushed it back in place!

Yes it is supposed to mute before the arm is lifted. Do you hear the relay click or not? Two possibilities: either the relay is stuck, or it could be an electronic fault (I doubt that really). If the relay is stuck you will have to inspect it, so I guess opening the deck is the order of the day... The "jerky" motion of the arm lift is normal

Thank you Geoff. I am therefore looking forward to hearing from your experimentation results. I think there's no damping fluid involved here. The coil behaves much like a 'speaker coil, albeit at a very low frequency. Altering the value of the above mentioned cap (part of the op-amp feedback loop) tends to confim this.

Anyone please? Martin?

Oops, I forgot to answer that one! Verdict: bad solder, it took a magnifying glass to see it! The 8000 I repaired had lots of bad solders by the way, but it works on its original caps!

Hi, I got for nothing an MMC20CL whose sapphire cantilever is broken. Axel tells me he can rebuild it for 150 €. So what do I do? A re-tip of my (dull but unworn) MMC20EN (99 €) or the CL? Will I get the MMC20CL sound everyone talks about? Thanks again.

Hey, I used Brasso on my 6006 and ten car paint wax polish. Looks like new (well almost). But I'd never use sandpaper!

Hi, I've looked into the electronic cueing system in my Beograms. All I could find was C9 which is supposed to delay the full voltage to SL1 (lift relay) after the processor has sent its signal, hence braking the arm slightly down to the record. That's the theory at least. On my two decks I think the arm is too fast lowering the stylus (exactcly