Check the main board itself. The front corners in particular. I've seen a couple of cases where the copper traces had broken due to vibrations in transport/moving around. The soft spots seem to be apprx 3-4 cm from the physical board corners. One case, a recent repair from the UK, had the front right corner of the main board broken clean off in

Yes, C1 and C10. C1 in 80% of the cases but I suggest you replace them both. As Jacques as says, it's very rare to see one of those large rectifiers fail and I don't remember replacing one in a BM6000 either, but of course that doesn't mean that it won't ever happen. Martin

Wow, what a collection ! DrDimitris is closing in... Martin

That second image is from where the mains go in ... Martin

Something produced around 1937-38. Nice one ! Martin

The large rectifier is not related to the blown fuse. That'll be the rectifier on the regulator board. On the same regulator board are two large aluminum electrolytic caps. In your Beomaster one of them has a piece of tape on it. It's very common to see one of them (or both) shorted. That is by far the most common reason for that fuse to blow

Italy Sweden Slovenia UK ... - and finally: Denmark - twelve points ! Martin

Check the tracking force first. Also make sure your amplifier is suitable for use with the MMC cartridge. Martin

It has an oval woofer (SEAS 28/17 TV) and two tweeters (Peerless MT20HFC) each side. Maybe one of the tweeters are bad. Or the filter capacitor. The speaker panels come out from the front, 2 screws from below each side, I think. The panels are held in grooves at the top, work carefully so you don't damage the veneer. Martin

I have seen problems with variable caps before but they were almost always a lack of contact or bent/shorted vanes. I never saw this problem before and can't help thinking that something from outside must have entered the cap. Maybe something was spilled down there at some point. There's no doubt that the intrduction of a 60 Ohm resistance in