Welcome to Beoworld ! The "P" does not mean anything specific but it reveals that the processor is not running its programme as intended. The main issues of the Beomaster 6000 are aging capacitors and cracked solder joints. Caps generally, solder joints at the lower edge of the processor module and at the board right below the processor board

Nice photo ! All Beomaster 700K's are mono. They were only made in one-speaker versions. Beomaster 700K only has one amplifier where the 900 has two. It was also available with a protruding front (where yours is flush) and with darker grey plastic framing (where yours is lighter grey). The Beomaster 900 came in both versions too, and as 900M with

Nice job ! The problem with non-latching pushbuttons is usually because the power switch doesn't release completely. This, in turn, does not release the locking rod inside the switch assy. If this is the case, you may have to take apart the power switch (THAT is tedious), clean everything and put it back together. A spring with a little higher tension

Welcome to Beoworld ! Many Beocord owners seem to have trouble with this since the original mains cables tend to crack around the power plug but it really isn't a huge problem. Many other producers used this type of power cord. Marantz, Revox etc. Do a search on Ebay and they will show up. Like this: http://shop.ebay.de/i.html?_nkw=revox+netz*&_sacat

No, 1637. That's the long nylon shaft behind the carriage. It tilts to lift/lower the tonearm. Martin

Check that the rear lift/lower shaft hasn't been blocked in the lowered position. Martin

First clean and/or excersize the speaker switches. Martin

Yes, it's normal for all B&O single-supply amplifiers where the output stage has a large capacitor in series with the loudspeaker, which in turn is connected to ground, to isolate the amplifier DC from the speaker. The pop comes from current running through the speaker as one side of the capacitor charges up to about half the supply voltage

It's one of the things on my going-to-reproduce-when-I-have-the-time list. I remember seeing a "solution" involving a LEGO wheel glued to the end of the threaded shaft that worked very well. Martin

Sounds like the good old capacitor problem. Replace the capacitors on the servo board. A kit exists for this, basic electronic skills and tools (soldering etc.) is needed. A standard fault is that the laser is starved for power by defective capacitors. Many repairers will diagnose it as a dead laser but that is very rare to see and because they didn't