Jaff, Thanks for the reply. I did have a harmony 1100 for a short time and returned it as the remote was freezing and I realized after I got it I wasn't happy at all with it. I'm actually considering ditching my antiquated Beosystem 1 with a newer Onkyo receiver soon. I'm using the BS1 for audio switching now only, and it really only adds

Jaff I think your Harmony is transmitting the B&O carrier frequencies though...

Has anyone tried this? B&O has the best looking IR eye. Was wondering if plugging it in to non B&O equipment (such as a non B&O receiver, etc) would work with the remote for that equipment if it wasn't a Beolink or Beo 4.

MAJOR: You are only correct in a simple setup that doesn't contain some sort of sound processing (for example, if you are splitting the L&R outputs in to 2 powerlink sockets and then using a DIN to RCA). If you have a dedicated subwoofer out then the comparison is valid.

Why are you comparing these low-end subs to B&O subs? The two you have picked are 100 and 130W subs? You certainly can't compare this to an 850W BL2! Go and find a truly high-end sup from another manufacturer and I think you will find most, if not all, will blow the B&O out of the water in terms of sound quality.

If they used an 8-pin powerlink, then it is either a Mark-II or Mark-III, either of which will work with your Beolab 3. So.....Don't worry!

Wow....a price reduction resulted in a $4000 USD, 26" TV.

Why are you set on mounting the speakers behind you with your couch against the wall? Many would recommend that you mount the surround speakers on the side walls pointed at the couch. If you use BL6000 I would mount them as well as the BL4000

IMHO if these are in as good of shape as they look, they are every bit worth what you sold them for... Minty Beovox 2500s are hard to come by, esp without lots of corner dings, driver damage, etc.

Funny how 40 years ago they figured out an AUX port in a portable was useful....