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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012 READ ONLY FORUM
This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and
1st March February 2012
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aweicc: I found with my 7.2 that sometimes during dvd playback, the speech is hardly audible and if I turn up the volume, then the background noise, music/sound effects ect, becomes too loud. Honestly that sounds like a problem in either the surround sound processor or the connections between it and the speakers. The centre channel will normally carry
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Yep -- check out http://shopping.yahoo.com/ for people selling cheap RCA to SCART converters. Usually under $10. The MX6000 won't accept S-Video over SCART (there's a separate port for that) but it does no harm to have a converter that handles S-Video. Because the previous owners of the TV swapped out the tuner, yes, you should be able to tune unscrambled
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You should indeed be able to choose CDV as the labeling for AV2. I do not remember if you can assign CDV to AV1. DVD and CDV are the equivalent command. However -- AV2 is not a "normal" scart output on the North American NTSC sets. It is instead a RCA/S-Video combination. Datalink is carried over a separate RCA jack. There is a very expensive custom
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Just for future reference, we now have the Service Guide available online for the North American NTSC MX 5x00 series. (It's temporarily sorted underneath the regular, European version in the drop-down menus, but I think Van may be fixing that soon. :) )
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Hm, well, first, you really don't want to watch a Satellite signal re-modulated over Channel 3. It will be in Mono, and you'll lose a lot of video quality. Instead, hook up the S-Video Out from the back of your satellite decoder box into the S-Video In on your MX. And get a SCART to RCA adaptor to accept the stereo RCA cables (white and red) for audio
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Nope! Best bet is to look on eBay for a used LC1.
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The 6000/7000 are relatively similar for the purposes of this question. The task involves dismounting a logic board and prising open a small tin that shields a certain area from interference. Within lies the EPROM to be replaced. There are special tools to remove this in an absolutely straight fashion, because the risk is that you will bend some of
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I think caps are definitely a place to start. However one thing I have noticed about my own NTSC MX -- it takes a few minutes to warm up to the final brightness level, appearing quite dim at first.
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Here's the motor of a BC9500 in situ for comparison:
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Amazing images! Does the Soundsmith or the original orientation result in better sound?
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