You can do the mod yourselve, it's really not difficult. The mod is for active and passive Pentas. http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/thread/42932.aspx Martin

Also wenn es den Sicherungswiderstand mit 4,7 Ohm zerlegt... autsch, dann fehlt es schon sehr weit. Dann ist der Laserstrom schon total ouf of spec ;) Ich benutze für die Low ESR Typen recht gerne YAGEO und YAMICON, erstere irgendwie lieber. Jedenfalls kann man sie als Notersatz für den 2103 verwenden. Wobei mir die Idee mit mehreren parallel

Hallo Urs, du hast bestimmt auf der Platine so ein paar Beschriftungen gesehen ... ja, ich messe den Laserstrom nach ob er in Ordnung ist. Ich benutze dafür immer dieselbe CD zum Ausprobieren. CD-R und CD-RW haben ganz andere Spannungen, da sollte man garnicht erst anfangen zu messen, die weichen total ab, aber gelesen werden sie bei korrekter

Hi, just replace the belt, that's probably the ticking sound. The belt is not round any more... it's like the shape of an egg after this time. Martin

Hello Jesper, yes, there is a lock on the socket. Just pull the white frame upwards for 1mm. When you mount the cable, first push the foil inwards, then press the frame down. Then the foilcable is fixed. Ulf is a close friend of mine, we work together on some projects Repairing and collecting old B&O stuff from the 80s/90s is my hobby. The problem

Hello Mika, that you used 4 x 10uf is also interesting, this is something like a 40uf Low ESR cap, you have lowered the internal resistance of a single cap to 25%... also some interesting effect which did not work on mine very well... but it will work. But, now you know that it can be repaired, it doesnt cost very much and is easy to do. ;) Martin

Hello Jesper, almost every 47uF 16V axial will work, more or less. At least, there will be no damage to the CD7000. The only problem is, that this cap 2103 is part of a filter system, the better it works, the more different CD types can be read. First of all, 47uf has shown to be the better choice than the original 33uf. My CD7000 can also read CD-RW

This is board 15. It is responsible for the mid's. Here the board without any mod. http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p3120007rl7.jpg http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/8850/p3120007rl7.jpg The resistor R5 can be set to 0 Ohm by a small wire bridge, the mid's become loader. All other capacitors have the same values like original. The C1

This is the mod in detail again... BOARD 14: http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9822/p3120002jd0.jpg http://img211.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p3120002jd0.jpg The picture shows it without any modification. This board is responsible for the tweeter and the bass section. The tweeter uses C4 and R3. C4 is original 2.2uf and can be modded to 4.7 - 5.6 -

Hello Jens, the mod on the amplifier is just the "small" mod, but i'm really happy that you can hear it :) The mod on the two filter boards is much bigger, it is like you would pull a blanket from the speakers. Pentas were sometimes described they would sound like speakers still in their transport box... especially the mid's and tweeters