But wait this little black wire on the side is holding it back, only need to remove this one to release the board so it can be flipped over for inventory.

Working my way around the Master, I need to get underneath the input/preamp board to get at potential hidden caps. Removing 4 screws frees the board.

Okay Soren, found you a desk lamp!

James Bond, Casino Royale just came on. I completely forgot how awesome Chris Cornell's You Know My Name is. Even better with that great opening sequence.

[quote user="Eugene"] Best bet is to order online or if you want a kit buy one of Martins. Stereolab is gonna mark up anything they sell you 1-200 percent and it may be something sitting in drawer for god knows how long or it may perhaps even be used. Esco is also going to be expensive if you dont have an account and you will be limited to

[quote user="Søren Mexico"] [quote user="Evan"]Sorry my pictures are horrible, my daylight is fading.[/quote] Did you ever give it a thought, working under artificial light, on my last visit to Home Depot I saw something new, a so called Desk Lamp. Keep them coming Evan, Gunther, I learn something new every day [/quote] Ok

Hi Gunther, Just made two stops looking for replacements. I'm almost sort of glad to hear the big 5000uF cap is OK because StereoLab, a local shop wants $22.50(!!!) per 4700uF/80V Nichicon. They were also equipped with the post style contacts like yours. Did you get yours off of the internet? I am still waiting on the other shop to send me a price

Does the service manual account for all parts on the amp board? I'm starting to find taking inventory of these caps to be slightly difficult. Oh and can you guys tell me how to read the original ROEs? example: 100/35 = 100uF, 35V right? If that is right, then some are 50 and 63V??!

Here's the close up In this picture you can see where the center cap is just starting to bulge. These caps look even bigger outside the BeoMaster, wow

And they're out! Only had to loosen one screw on the carrier, which is a good thing because I don't think I could access the other without removing a PCB.