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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012 READ ONLY FORUM
This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and
1st March February 2012
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The panels are motorised. If you touch 'load' on either the Beocord or Beogram CD, then the panels open to reveal the cassette or CD, and some secondary controls in the case of the Beocord. Ben
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My RL35 are packed away, but my RL1000 which are essentially the same speaker have the fittings in the back for wall mounts.
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Basically remove, clean old tape, and re stick with your preferred choice of either carpet tape, epoxy, RTV etc. I used RTV, simply because its what I had to hand. Other people seem to have used epoxy and others carpet tape. Ben.
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I believe that the 5000 offers slightly better performance due to its conventional none auto reverse system when compared to the 5500. The 5500 uses a much smaller combined rotating erase/playback head, compared to the full sized fixed heads in the 5000. It also has the advantage of one large flywheel, instead of two small ones. Ben.
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Yes to both questions! It will drive active speakers via the powerlink sockets, or passives using the built in amplifier via the speakerlink connections. The Beomaster 3500 was designed to be used with the Beolink 1000, so no problems there. The only thing I would suggest is to rebond the glass control panels, if it hasn't already been done. The
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Your local B&O Dealer should be able to get all the spare parts you need for this model. Cheers, Ben
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Alex: Multiple tweeters are not beneficial, and the same goes for multiple midrange drivers. If anything, you make the sound worse by using multiple drivers if you listen on varying vertical axis. Sound from each driver will overlap and you'll get destructive and constructive interference leading to comb filtering and phasing issues. The only way
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Underneath 'Program', Press Step, then Clear. Repeat until 'No Input' is displayed on the panel. It sounds more like a technical fault though with the amplifiers bias voltage. See if the fins at the rear of the unit get hot quickly once turned on. If so, there are a couple of potentiometers that need changing and resetting inside of
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An 'HD fury' will do what you need, convert the HDMI or DVI signal to VGA. I've heard of people using these fine on PS3's, but there is no reason that it wouldn't work on your STB. Cheers, Ben
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I'm looking to recap my pentas, but am having a hard time tracking down some 10,000 uF/80v capacitors for the main power supply. 10,000/100v are easy to come by, but all seem to be 40+ mm in diameter which wont fit. Farnell show 10,000/80v in their system, but none are in stock. These will be an easy fit at 35mm dia and 50mm long. Has anybody else
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