Hi Joost, I think it would be very worthwhile to do it. Could you post 2 close-up high-resolution photos of the RIAA PCB - it is a detachable PCB - both the top side and bottom side pictures. If I am not mistaken, it is part # 8001245, but I don't have the circuit diagram for it. I remember installing it for a customer many years ago (but without

Hi Martin, I have now completed the mod, according to your recommendations. I replaced all the 2.2uF Electrolytics with Wima Polyester caps. All the other small value caps are Panasonic Polypropylene. The remaining Electrolytics are now Panasonic EB units. I could not find any 220pF polystyrene foil caps, so, I substituted Epcos Mica caps instead. Mica

Hi Martin, Excellent article!!! Actually, about a year ago, I replaced the capacitors with Panasonic Metal Polypropylene as you see, but I did not yet replace the Op-amps. I am thinking about the LM4562, instead of the OPA2134. What do you think of the LM4562?

Hi all, I've been thinking about this mod for a while - it seems to me that this could be a very useful mod to do on the 1970's era BeoMasters, to make them even more useful with current equipment. On this particular model - Type 2802, with 4 channels, it's appears pretty complicated tracing the circuits from the Service Manual. I'm

Quality wise, the 4500's mechanical design is way above the 9000. The 4500 is at its end-of-life for the electrolytic capacitors, which means you'll need to have them all replaced, if you want to enjoy continuing trouble-free operation, with the best sound possible. Just because the stereo "works", doesn't mean that all is OK.

Hi, I have modified computer switchboxes for use with stereos, just as you want. Here is a picture - 1 input and 4 outputs. Can be used bidirectionally - to and from the stereo , from and to the external devices. Works perfectly. Here's a picture - I have coiled 5-pin din cables as well for a real neat professional looking job. Send me an email

Peter - thanks for your kind offer of a loaner! I already have had experience of people sending me units for repair, and me having to fight with Customs to prevent them levying duties on the imports. I ended up having to post bonds on the equipment until it was re-exported, but it's a hassle I don't enjoy repeating. If you could scan me the

Hi Peter, Thanks for your input! Actually all my CD4 records are in pristine condition, having been bought new, and played only on my (long-time sold) BG3400 CD4 w/ MMC6000. After that was sold, the LP's were left in the cupboard for many years. I just took them out again recently, playing sparsely on my BG4500 w/ SMMC2, and now on my recently completed

Thanks - good advice - I'll use the 220uF cap. What about replacing 2 x 5000uF/35V Polarized, after the bridge rectifier - I can get either 4700uF or 6800uF (not 5600uF, which I thought of first)?

My BG6000 has a BiPolar 150uF 10V capacitor across the Platter Motor terminals. There are no 150uF Bipolar caps available. I have 3 options available: 1. Use a 220uF BiPolar - how will this affect the original requirement for only 150uF? Usually I have no problem uprating a required capacitance, if it's a small amount, but here we are looking at