I would suggest a Beocenter 7000/70002/7007/7700 would be considerably better at a very similar price. Easier to get parts for as well.

The problem will be remote control. I imagine that the HDR2 relies on the Beovision for its IR eye. I don't know about the DVD2 but would not be surprised if it too needed a Beovision. Why not simply get the the Philips 7300H if you plan to do this? It will be cheaper and will have its own remote. Or better still, buy one with a digital tuner built

You are probably right! I am a bit out of date! As said before, I actually would not look at one as repairing them is not easy. It is an interesting machine though.

No, but the arm will not drop. It should work normally in other ways. You should also get the click as the solenoid works as well.

The Beocenter 4000 was actually a Japanese device - quite novel though! They do fetch about £125 usually on eBay and about £20 at car boot sales. Personally, I wouldn't touch it. Difficult to keep going as parts are a big problem. The RX2 is worth about £60 - 75. If it has a cartridge, sell it separately and if you are lucky, that

Yes - I saw that one - looks nice. Pay extra to have it very well packaged. The platter should be taken off and taped to the base and the arm supported with foam. Lots of bubble wrap and polystyrene chips and double boxed. These are fragile decks and break easily. Best wishes,

Alex: , you could modify it yourself, or possibly ask struer if they would do such a thing for you? Thanks Alex - I needed a good long laugh!

The HDR2 will record using the timer from a digital source. The DVD2 will not. I would get the HDR2 and a cheap DVD-R at present. Once the HD DVD battle is won, then I would get the B&O version. I have Sky+ as well as VCRs and a DVD/HDD recorder. I use Sky+ as it integrates perfectly with my B&O and is completely idiot proof!

You can of course remove the region lock if you want to - will cost though. I have a BC2 but confess to not really falling in love with it. The lack of tactile feedback from the keys is probably the reason. They are not as sensitive as the keys on a 9500 say as instead of being capacitance based, they rely on the aluminium moving slightly as you touch

oraclesage: Hello, I have a question. One of my Beolab 8000 speakers just died - no red light, no power. Is there a power fuse inside? Is that something I can replace myself? How do I open the speaker to see inside? There's no dealer where I live, and it's kind of expensive to ship this for repair. I would appreciate your answer. Phil The service