3 good sources for B&O parts and repair in the USA: Paul - Atlantic Systems MA 781-826-8760 Larry - Approved Audio CT 860-567-5801 repair@approvedaudioservice.com Chris Lewis - Pyramid Audio TX 512-458-8292 tech@pyramid-audio.com All 3 are recommended highly

Hi all, I am restoring a 1976 Beocord 2200, and have found a parts unit in the Chicago area. I am in Israel, so postage is prohibitive to send the complete tape-deck. I need a good technical B&O buff in the USA, who would be willing to accept the deck, shipped from the seller. Keep the tape-deck for himself, and take out a couple of the parts which

Hi Martin Thanks for your reply. I have cleaned and regreased all necessary axles - it didn't help. Here is the problem - transmission arm, part # 2851086. The white plastic rotating wheels are cracked with a tiny hairline crack - not surprising, being that this is the part which receives the most wear in the machine. So they rotate slightly crooked

Keep an eye out on Fleabay for the 1970's vintage Sonab OA-series vertical speakers by Carlson. Absolutely stunning sound. Many of them now have foam rot on the bass-driver, but it is a simple fix.

Thank you all for your good words! For me, this is very relaxing recreation, albeit challenging. The best part, is that I still get to enjoy the fruits of my labor for hopefully many more years!

Hi all, I've finally got around to repairing my 1976 Beocord 2200 - type 4601, which I've had since new. The 2 problems are very specific: 1. When pressing PLAY >, with no cassette inserted, both the tape cogs rotate as expected. With a cassette inserted, the forward cog (pull) does not rotate, but the rear cog (push) does - resulting in

I wouldn't buy a Merc today. For 5 glorious years in my youth, I had the best they ever made - a metallic blue 1970 300SEL 6.3, bought second-hand from a Saudi Consular officer. Then, it was billed as the fastest production car in the world. With handling to match! I broke many a traffic rule (and never got caught!!!!!), and I loved that beast.

And here's a front view, showing the LED lighting (5mm Warm White) - not very common, but the color tone is as close to incandescent as can be.

I then stained it with a water stain mix of red and brown, which was sanded again to remove the "hairs". The rear heat sink (originally matte black) was chemically stripped to its natural aluminium, and then polished. It was then coated with 3 layers of polyurethane. It looks and sounds fantastic!

The cabinet was stripped of its old decaying teak veneer, down to the MDF structure, and then new 0.8mm Bubinga (African Rosewood) veneer was pressure-applied onto the old MDF. The new veneer was sanded down gradually, and finally with 1000 grade steel wool to provide an almost mirror smoothness.