I noticed something. If i turn the stand to one of the sides, then use the remote to turn it the other direction, it will not turn all the way in one operation. It stops some places, and I need to push the button again to make it turn further. Correction: If I keep holding the button, the stand will continue after about a second.

Have to admit that it annoys me a bit that they put B&O sound systems into the Audis and not BMWs.

I'm working on it right now. I'm measuring changes in AC on pin 4 when I move the stand. I don't have an oscilloscope at home, so i have to make due with the trusty old multimeter.

tournedos: The cap is there to keep the control DC voltage out of the equation. If you had a fixed divider, the circuit would only work at one of the possible control voltage levels (either no control, 16:9 or 4:3). Well I simulated it too, so it should work Maybe the actual data levels differ from those in the service manual, or depend on the load

Hagen2000: The voltage divider would simply consist of a suitable resistor instead of capacitor C1. So I see no difference in wiring. The resistor has to be calculated to break the voltage of Pin 8 down to the working range of the op amp. I made my suggestion because you wrote that I do get some pulses out, but they are not the same as the ones going

mhw: Good to hear that you fixed the Avant! But the Beocenter 9300 isn’t yours anymore Haha, will update my signature.

Hi Hagen! What makes the solution with the capacitor so elegant to me is that I don't have to cut any of the original wires. I just solder a wire to the AVIO-port on the xbox and out comes the pulses. (In theory.... ) The pulses are actually being transfered through the cap and they look good, but I need to find exactly the right reference voltage

I tried your circuit last week, mika. I do get some pulses out, but they are not the same as the ones going in. Worked pretty good in the simulator in Electronic Workbench though! :) Will try changing some of the components later today, didn't have the time last time.

I reheated some of the big solders on the power supply pcb, and that seemingly did the trick. Can't be sure just yet, but after pulling the cord and replacing it several times with the red led lighting up every time i feel confident that a dry joint was the culprit. The stand still doesn't park though. I tried programming 1 and 2 a couple of

The penta speakerlink input will take the amplified signal from the beomaster down to linelevel again and then use its own amplifier to take the signal back up. I wouldn't care too much about the thickness of the cable. The cables inside the speaker aren't much thicker. ;) Just don't place the mains cord alongside the speaker cable.