I think all mechanical functions are now there. I have not had a chance to put the platter back in and try playing a record to see if it tracks o.k....and then there is the "dented" cartridge it arrived with (the rpm panel came loose during transport and hit it). The needle seems to look o.k....we will see...would you buy a used cartridge

O.k.!!! I finally figured out what the problem was (thanks again, Olly, for your enlightening insights!): The insulation washer for screwing 1IC4 down to the heat sink pad was installed upside down (that much for buying from unknown sources on ebay!), which prevented it from keeping the screw from touching the collector/heat sink of the transistor.

Hi Olly, Does this mean there is a high voltage pulse initially to move the arm down, and then the solenoid runs on reduced voltage to stay down? In my case, there is a 'click' when the solenoid is fully engaged, and it stays in place in down position. It stays there when the voltage is turned off. To get it into the "up" position

Hi Olly, Thanks much for your insight! I was wondering about whether there is only a short pulse or not...I noticed that the mechanism locks in the "arm lowered position" after the solenoid engages. Is it released by a second pulse to let the arm raise back up? I will check the circuit as you suggested and report back! Thanks! Rudy

It seems my Beogram 4004 now does all functions happily except lowering the tone arm (see post " Beogram 4004 Trouble "). Running it with a disk on the platter results in positioning the arm at the beginning of the record after pressing "start" as it should. However, then the voltage drops (or the mains fuse blows) and the current

Allright!! Life signs! I obtained a set of jump cords and jumped plug P4 (see pic below-what a beautiful mess...;-). Then I hooked my multimeter sequentially into each of the connection and measured the current, while operating the power supply under 0.5 Amp current limit. This quickly allowed me to identify pin #3 as the offending current sink. The

Hi Mika, Thanks much for your input! A possibly naive question: How do I disconnect the four traces? I can see how to do the two right ones by taking the jumpers out, but the ones on the left? I do not think that I have shorts anymore...the three "serious voltage" carrying pins on P4 of the main board seem to lead now into "reasonable

Hi There, Thank you very much for all your great input!! I spent some more time with my 4004 baby, and made some progress (perhaps). First, I heeded Olly's advice and hooked the board up to my power supply. It turned out that the high current only occurs when P4 is connected (pen points to it in the picture-I apologize for the poor focus-forgot

Ah yes!! I now remember transformers from my Physics classes...;-). I agree this must have been a full short somewhere. Maybe something mechanical in the key pad? It happened when I pressed down the 33 button...I cannot imagine it is the transformer, since I did not touch it when it happened. Also: after that event, I put in a new fuse, and I got the

Hi Olly, Thanks for your advice! Much appreciated! I think, I need to first check the H-bridge transistors and add the missing TR20 before I can start consistently measuring the board outputs etc...When I played with the motor yesterday, I tried many times to start/stop it to see if it would get stuck sometimes and draw a high enough current to blow