Yes I use UV with photo-coated glass-epoxy. I use the Xerox machine at work. Nope, I haven't replaced it yet but I'll definitely do it, perhaps next week when I have some time.

I usually print two transparent rhodoid sheets and superimpose them to have enough contrast... Today the neon light took 20 seconds to light up...

Oh yes! It is complicated. You MUST find the service manual though (pages 7-1 and 7-2). First remove the plate underneath the arm (do this when playing a record). Turn the large plastic scew with a coin. Press stop. Unplug the deck. You have two screws underneath the deck, precisely under the left edge. Remove the platter and subplatter. You may use

Thanks Olly. Actually I've got one in stock, so I may well end up replacing it! Does anybody know whether it's worth replacing any caps in these decks? Mine has its original big grey ones, which appear to be fine... but they are 35 years old! I admit to not having tested the deck with an osciloscope though. What are the caps you had to replace

[quote user="Dillen"] I agree with the above comments. Martin [/quote] Well you have to Professor Martin, you taught us all!

If you don't hear the coils, then the tachodisc is probably not the main problem. If it isn't metal, you'll have to change it someday anyway. Have a look at those connectors please! Can you test voltages and components (especially transistors)?

Hi, As far as the screeching noise of the lids is concerned, I pathetically failed in lubricating everything... Still here! And yes the cover does amplify the noise coming from both hinges The neon issue: it doesn't always light instantly. It may take a few seconds to light (especially from cold), but then it stays put! Maybe the reed contact I

Also consider the solder joints at the connectors. These are prone to failure. Along with new caps, most problems will thus be solved. Do the coils hum at all?

You're welcome. Do keep us informed please! And the name's Jacques

Hi Derek and welcome to Beoworld! I did it on my Beogram 4000 and 4002, which were completely stuck. Basically, you have to remove the lid, then open the deck (see here ), remove the arm cap and unscrew the left part (two screws), which bears the arm lift along with the detector arm. Be careful, the wires are kind of fragile! Then you need to remove