To tell the truth, I'm loathe to recommend anything, unless I can see the PCB close-up and clearly, to see where those pins (and their traces) are going, that it's not a misprint. I've come across plenty of B&O PCB's with incorrect component markings on them. At a start, if it is in fact correct, it suggests to me that the BC369

And here is the finished product from the rear, not B&O original, but it does the job admirably of feeding my Sub.

Here is the rear bulkhead, showing the Phono and Tape DIN Sockets, with their new wiring after the "accident". The 2 new RCA sockets are on the extreme left, the Right channel socket on top, the Left channel socket on the bottom. You can see a sheet of rigid cellophane, which I added as an insulator between the tops of the components on the

Here is the underneath of the PCB, showing the wiper contacts of the 2 Volume Pots. Blue is the right channel, White is the left channel.

A while back, I restored my BeoMaster 3400 Quad, with the upgrade of all capacitors, much soldering of dried joints, and general cosmetic cleanup. The sound improvement was so drastic that I kept looking at my 600W TC2000 subwoofer, and thinking "What if....." So, I finally got down to it. The objective was to set up 2 RCA sockets, off the

Hi Catn 1. BU508 is a Horizontal Deflection BiPolar Power Transistor (3 pins - Base, Collector, and Emitter), not a FET (3 pins - Gate, Drain, and Source). Here are 2 perfectly good substitutes for it: 1. Sanyo 2SC5763 2. Fairchild KSC5030F, or the FJAF6810 which is specifically a Horizontal Deflection Transistor. The Fairchild unit is probably more

Beware of NOS (New Old Stock) MMC cartridges. The diamond tips are in top shape, as they should be - never having been used, but what you can't see is the internal rubber mounting. That internal rubber mounting is THE weak link in the entire B&O cartridge technology. After 15+ years, the odds are better than even that the rubber decay is well

Had one like this - cracked trace on the PCB, but could also be dry solder joints. M Yachad

Check the ESR on all your capacitors. These CD decks are built like a tank, and will last for (almost) ever, except for the lousy capacitors B&O used. Regards M Yachad

Andy, Forget your "silly plastic cog" - I couldn't repair mine - it just broke again in a different place. Its function WAS to provide weight to the tuning wheel. So, what I did, was to get a couple of thick rubber washers, glue them together (vulcanizing glue) to make them even thicker, and then glue them onto the axle. The rubber washers'