Many thanks Graham, It looks as the solution to my problem is not as hopeless as I had thought. I wondered whether parts for a similar model would fit, usually I have found there is just a small difference that makes a straight replacement unworkable. Regards John

I have a Beocenter 9000 with a damaged rear back panel. Is there any chance of finding a replacement? Unfortunately I am not in a position to collect it but would be quite happy to pay the additional cost of suitable packing and carriage. I am located near Bristol UK and frustrated by the "cracked " 5cm of glass at the extreme right of the

I don't know whether this helps but I have a Beomaster 1400 with an optional plug-in decoder board. This might give some idea of when Stereo was introduced.

Hello again Graham, Your instructions were very helpful indeed and I had no problems in getting to the mechanism. Fortunately nothing was broken and I managed to relocate the door in it's guides. The string and attachment mechanism was all present but had become detached from the door. It seemed obvious how to put it back but my reassembly might

Hello Graham , Many thanks for the instructions. I had not realised both glass panels needed removing. The exploded 3D diagram is fine for giving a general impression but it could not show all the screws. I will have ago and see how far I get. I only hope nothing inside has been broken by whatever dislocated it. I will no doubt find out! Regards John

Can anyone give me advice. I have a Beocenter9000 that was damaged in transit. The CD sliding door is wedged partly open and does not move . It looks as though the outer end has been dislodged from the runners. the drive mechanism seems sound but I can see no way of refitting it. I can move the door by hand but not far enough to fit the 'fingers'

I have come back to this Beocenter after a break and checked measurements again. On plug 24 I checked the voltage on the brown lead coming from pin 1 and this is 13v. I am assuming this means that the power unit is working O.K. I must be misunderstanding the wiring diagram because it looks to me as if there should be 13v also on pins 2 and 3 but this

Yes Martin, I have rechecked the voltage on pin1 of P11 and there is voltage there but it is only 5.5v. The plug I checked is a brown one near the tape deck and across the boundary between sections C and D on the pcb. The plugs are not easy to identify on my board but I think I have got it right. When I checked it originally I had thought it was a 6v

Thank you Martin for your reply. Yes it was the fuse I checked and it is O.K. There is another fuse at the other edge of the board near a two pin connector. This is marked 4A slow-blow and this too is sound.

I think I have found P11 but the printing is obscured. The plug I measured is close to the tape deck. Pin1 which is next to the space on the socket and has a green lead shows 5.6 v. I am not sure where the fuse is located but I have found one on the same board with no label but marked as 1A slow blow. This is sound. I am assuming that the motor is probably