Haha! I have NO business writing a technical article, but thanks for making me feel smart! Boy, have I got you guys fooled! Jon

Also, there are quite a few differences between the S120's and the MC120.2's, not the least of which is the crossover. If I have a schematic for the MC120.2 somewhere, I'll post it. I don't think the S120 schematic would do you any good, Jacques. Jon

Well, I wouldn't consider myself to be anything approaching "quite knowledgable", but thank you! As far as I understand it to be, Bang and Olufsen decided on using the filler-driver concept as a way to compensate for the phase shift introduced by a crossover. Because of the resultant phase shift with a crossover, the driver's polarities

[quote user="chartz"] Hello, I have now ordered the cap kit, so I shall keep you informed of the results. As far as bass is concerned, I placed them right against the back wall and this restored some bass. Maybe that is what B&O intended their customers to do, I don't know. Every other speaker I've owned would produced too much

[quote user="Alex"] Are you referring to baffle-step? If so, I was under the impression this was compensated for by the active crossover/EQ in the BeoLabs... [/quote] Yes. I should have clarified that I was referring to Beovox speakers. I'm not sure about all of the Beolab speakers, but I know the Beolab 1's had a 3-position switch

Hmmm. I'd like to hear more about this. How do I get ahold of Mr. Jarman? As far as I understood, wear on an electrolytic capacitor (operated within it's voltage limits) was caused by heat and age. Jon

I always thought the premise with the panels was that, when hung on the wall, they would act as if radiating into a 2pi environment (all sound in front of the speaker), avoiding (mostly, anyway) the transition into a 4pi radiation characteristic (the longer wavelengths of lower frequencies wrapping around the back of the speaker) like a floorstanding

If you decide to take the dome mids apart, it's a pretty easy and self-evident thing. There's 3 plastic tabs that click into place behind the metal rim of the driver frame. They're attached to the diaphragm/voice coil assembly. Just pop back those three tabs and the whole diaphragm/voice coil assembly lifts right off. There's a small

Been gone for the week on vacation! Sorry to hear about the mids... Hopefully, you can find some good ones. Or save up and get those reconed too, I guess. It sucks that the previous owners didn't take good care of these fine speakers! Now you're having to pay for it. Jon

Oh man! That sucks. Especially after all the work you've put into them! Set your multimeter to measure the DC resistance of the driver. Should be around 5 or 6 ohms. Or, just hook the mids directly to your receiver at a nice, low volume and play some music. If you get sound then obviously the problem lies in the wiring or crossover. If you have