If you want to be 100% certain, you could connect 2 speakers to each channel, but connected in SERIES, not parallel. That way, you would have 4 speakers, but the amplifier would be happily seeing a total load of a minimum of 8 ohms. Menahem

Your UK/European PAL TV will not receive US NTSC signals at all, unless you do one of 2 things: 1. Have an NTSC tuner fitted instead of your PAL tuner - I'm not sure if B&O will even do this. OR 2. Buy a PAL/NTSC MultiSystem VCR of any brand, and use the VCR's NTSC tuner to receive the NTSC signal from cable or airwaves; Then setup the MultiSystem

Hi Loris, Yes, I remember changing this lamp (OIL2) to an LED, and my notes state that I used a 1KOhm 1W resistor to drop the 22.8VDC to 3VDC for the LED. On this circuit, it doesn't matter which side you put the resistor, whatever is most convenient for you. It was not an especially difficult job, otherwise I would have made more notes on it. No

Ok, so here's where we differ in the Schematics - in my Service Manual (original B&O paper, not pdf) on the transistor chart, TR17 is shown as 8320097 which shows BC107B in the metal-case format, but actually a BC119 is installed (which shows as 8320124). If your SM matches the installed components, then you probably have an updated SM. But

Andy, Thank you so much, my friend!!! So, the Service Manual is definitely misprinted on these components! Just as well that you didn't have to develop all 20 photos!!!! Actually, the PCB's are not soldered, they are held in by friction claws, and can be removed by pulling firmly upwards!!! Menahem

Yes, but where does it come from in the actual turntable - from which PCB? I understand that there was some confusion about this.

Without doubt a BM1001. I remember seeing that in my dealer's showroom in the late 1970's, when I chose to invest (it was a fortune, then) in my BeoMaster 3400. See how the design is very similar, and the push buttons are identical. Menahem

Hi Paul, You can replace the 3 10.7MHz filters with narrower 150kHz units. The originals are about 300kHz wide - like barn doors, and let all kinds of interference in. In the US, Bill Ammons sells matched filter sets, if you don't have the equipment to match them yourself. Google him. You will definitely need an alignment after that, and you will

Loris, Could you please post a picture of the PCB and housing to which you are referencing - I certainly did not have any problems removing any housings or lamps when I replaced all of them with LED's. Only 2 incandescent lamps remained on mine - on the Flip-flop circuit, and inside the tangential arm - that's all. All the rest were replaced

As you can see on the Circuit Diagram, there is 22.8VDC on the +ve side of the lamp, relative to GND. Measuring from +ve lamp terminal to GND, you should see 22.8VDC. Measuring from -ve lamp terminal to GND, you should see a couple of volts less than 22.8VDC (but if the lamp is shot, you won't see any volts at all). As for voltage across the lamp